You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 4693 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 6 posts

Friday, July 15th 2011, 3:50pm

by wsommariva

One thing about my install that bothers me. I think I should have used unions so I could remove the valves easier. I have four valves in one box. Everything works great but down the road I'll need to remove the valve box and it's a PITA. Someday when I redo the valves and manifold I'll install unions and get one of those big valve boxes.

Friday, July 15th 2011, 1:07pm

by seansy59

Wet_Boots: This is a 3/4" model though. Mine are 3/4" too and close after about 5-10 seconds.



wsommariva: When I installed my system, I left room for myself to work inside the box if needed to (ex. 3 valves per box). I cleaned them inside the box/still attached to the manifold. All you do is take the top 4 screws off carefully, and don't let the "solenoid plunger" fall out of the top bottom.

Friday, July 15th 2011, 12:53pm

by Wet_Boots

Toro valves of their classic one-inch models have always been extremely slow to close when they have been opened by way of the bleed screw on the valve. Minutes pass, and you are convinced there has been some failure. More minutes pass, and the valve closes.

Friday, July 15th 2011, 11:39am

by wsommariva

Good to know, thanks. Did you do the cleaning with the valve in the manifold or did you remove it from the manifold?

Friday, July 15th 2011, 11:25am

by seansy59

Hi there,



I have the same valve for my system (5 zone). I had this happen to 2 of my valves, and they are only 3 months old. They would work fine on the controller, but would not close if I used the bleed screw. I found out that the stem of the bleed screw was dirty. I took the solenoid apart (with water to system off), cleaned it, and reseated the rubber seal/spring/solenoid, and flushed it out a few times, and its fine.



When you take the valve apart, be sure to remmeber where everything goes. I'm good at taking things apart and putting them together without worry, but I know some people who have a hard time with that.



Let us know how it goes.

Friday, July 15th 2011, 11:14am

by wsommariva

Toro valve incident

Hi everyone;

I seeded a small patch of grass and manually turned on zone 4 - a Toro 3/4" in line valve # 53380. A few months old. After ten minutes I went to turn it off and water flow did not stop. I tapped it a few times, turned the manual control a few times and finally after many tries the flow stopped. I think I'll use the controller from now on for temp watering. Any ideas what the problem was?