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[quote='dtirey',index.php?page=Thread&postID=19305#post19305]All,
I'm new to the site so first let me start off by saying hello. I'm a homeowner newbie that is in the military. I do have experience in electrical systems though. So, I have noticed when I wake up in the morning that my grass and driveway isn't wet as it should be since my irrigations system starts at 6am. I ran the system in manuel starting with zone 1. It began to run for about 1 minute and quit working. Tried to go to zone 2 and then zone 3 with no luck. I tried to restart zone 1 and it wouldn't kick on. The next day it did the same thing. So, let me tell you what I have done so far.
1) Manual turned the valves, all zones work properly. I know it isn't a pressure issue.
2) Figured it was an old controller,so bought a new one...still didn't work.
3) Got a volt meter and checked the readings when zone should be activated. All zones where 28VAC...I realized I can return the new controller.
4) disconnect all wiring. Read OL on each wire reading individual. Shorted wires and read a short. I know the wiring is good, and has good conductivity. 
5) I read each solenoids resistance. Zone 1 and Zone 2 (Hunter ASV-101) read 24 ohms. Zone 3 (orbit 57623) read 30 ohms. I figure the difference is because it is different brands. 
I checked connections but not thoroughly at the time. I figured if system came on for a minute, then connections had to be good. Any help on this system would be greatly appreciated. Dtirey[/quote]

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The last 10 posts

Monday, January 9th 2012, 8:51pm

by Bill Painter

Sprinkler zone starts, but then quits

I'm suspect of valve #1 and the Master Valve....
The first two solenoids' resistances were kinda low, and I didn't see were the master valve was tested for resistance.
I've had solenoids read well within their limits (for any given manufacturer) start shorting out after a period of time [from 10 seconds to as much as 3-5 minutes] - and the longer the solenoid had power, the less the resistance became finally breaking the circuit...
As a soleonid begins to short out the windings, the resistance becomes less and they start to heat up... and the more they heat up, the more windings become shorted...ad infinitum.
Way to check.... Jot down the resistances on all the valves including the master valve. Run the valves in queston and check 'em out right after the clock craps out... is the resistance is lower than it was when you checked it cold? 20 Ohms or less... replace the solenoid....
Good Luck.... Bill
tismaz.com

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Monday, January 9th 2012, 5:32am

by wsommariva

What's a toner? And that common wire - a ground? I thought it was a neutral.

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Sunday, January 8th 2012, 8:44pm

by dtirey

Yeah Mrfixit, and I did. However, I was only taking resistance readings and the readings weren't necessary out of specs. That's why I used a toner. Thanks though for the help.

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Sunday, January 8th 2012, 7:47pm

by wsommariva

Great Dave.

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Sunday, January 8th 2012, 7:40pm

by mrfixit

Isn't that what someone suggested you try in the very first reply of this post?

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Sunday, January 8th 2012, 4:17pm

by Mitchgo

Good thing you had a spare wire

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Sunday, January 8th 2012, 2:35pm

by dtirey

Problem solved. I retook resistance readings on all 7 wires in the cable. My common cable was reading pretty low and didn't get any tone on the continuty test, but the other 6 wires were good. So, I swapped it, rewired my valves and everything worked fine. If not, this would have sucked because when they ran he cable they didn't run it through PVC, so pulling the cable would have been impossible unless I tore up the concrete. Again, thanks everyone for your help.
Dave

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Sunday, January 8th 2012, 12:14pm

by wsommariva

Hopefully you can atatch new cable to old and pull it under the concrete.

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Sunday, January 8th 2012, 11:11am

by dtirey

Ok, all. I definetly have a wiring problem. I ran the extension cord to the sprinkler valves and hooked both controllers (old and new) on station. I then connected each station to the control, elminating the main cable. Everything worked perfectly. So, the good news is I can take back the new controller. My next task is to test each lead on the cable. Hopefully, I have a couple good ones. It will be suck to rerun that cable since it is under brand new concrete. FML

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Sunday, January 8th 2012, 9:48am

by dtirey

I'm located in San Diego. Here is my plan today. I'm going to recheck all voltage and resistance readings. However, my first step is to elminate the wiring portion. I'm going to run an extension cord to the valves and hook each solenoid to the controller, elminating the wiring. This should tell me if I have a problem with the wiring.
That being said, I had a pool installed a couple of months ago and I know the hit the wiring. Everything was fixed (spliced), and has worked fine every since. I have already checked the wiring. Yesterday, I took readings of each wire to ground and read OL. I then shorted on side of the wire and took readings and read a short. So, that shows me the wiring is good. I will start over and do this again. I will let you know what I find today. Thanks

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