You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 3900 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 10 posts

Friday, August 23rd 2013, 1:47pm

by Wet_Boots

a 2-year-old system might still be covered by a guarantee

Friday, August 23rd 2013, 1:21pm

by Dizzy Spaniard

OK, so check the zones separately. The rep believes I may need a new controller, but the system is only 2 yrs old.

Friday, August 16th 2013, 11:13pm

by Wet_Boots

You can have an acceptable resistance reading from a solenoid that will fail as an overload, once voltage is applied. Heat brings on the overload, and all solenoids heat up a bit when they operate.

Friday, August 16th 2013, 11:20am

by Dizzy Spaniard (Guest)

MVP Short

I am reading the same MVP Fault. I have tested resistance, and all zones are reading within their limits. Is this an issue with the unit?

Tuesday, October 16th 2012, 6:59pm

by Wet_Boots

You should be doing resistance testing at the controller, One test lead on the system common, the other on the zone wires.

Tuesday, October 16th 2012, 1:19pm

by titanescape

well did some digging yesterday and that wire I found in the yard does not appear to be going to my system. I dug up a good portion of the yard and traced the wires, looks like they go back to the controller. Back to square one!

Monday, October 15th 2012, 3:09pm

by titanescape

*****Update*****

I did some more investigating this weekend and this is what I found:

I looked behind the control panel and got the color of all the wires. I systematically went to each of those valves (the round holes covered with the green plastic lids) and looked for any broken wires or visible issues. The main wires go from my garage through the wall and out of the side of the house and into the ground. I read where they "usually" don't run them under the driveway so I started on the side and into the back yard.

In the back yard I found a cable with a bundle of wires in it that had been cut and is just laying in the back yard. All the colors match so I'm pretty sure these are the wires coming from the controller. When I pulled on it a bit..it's partially buried on one end but it appears that it's leading to a set of valves in the back yard. I can see where the valves are wired together but I'm thinking the main wire is cut. If I pull on the wires connected to the valves, I can tell they are connected together. There is a wire in the center hole that's going under ground and I can't tell if it's connected or not.

The plan now is to dig from the valves back and try to find the other end of that cut cable. I was planning on splicing the cable back together and then going from there. I'm not sure how the cable was cut but I should be able to splice it together if I can find the other part.

Am I on the right track? Is there a reading that I can take from the cut wires to confirm that it's leading back to the controller? I know I need to be careful digging so that I don't cut through anything else.

Friday, October 12th 2012, 4:15pm

by Wet_Boots

You aren't checking voltages. That would be too easy. :) You are checking resistances. If you had the capability, you would be checking current, also, because it is the current that trips the 'electric circuit breaker' in the controller.

Friday, October 12th 2012, 11:42am

by titanescape

I have a volt meter so no problem there. Two questions, 1. Am I checking the voltage at the control panel or at the valve itself. I looked at what i thought was the master valve pump and there were no wires or anything that I could see. Do I need to remove something to get to the wires?

Thursday, October 11th 2012, 12:01pm

by Wet_Boots

You may have a control relay that draws too much power, and the controller sees it as a short. Use your multimeter to check out resistances.