Reply
Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.
Attention: The last reply to this post was 7395 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.
The last 10 posts
Sorry no experience with those.
Thanks for the advice. I'll add a mainline drain. Any thoughts on the Weathermatic master control valve and the Flow-clik?
Thanks
If the reason you are going to use end of line drains is in case of accidental freezing then you must also install a mian line drain. I am not saying this is bad but I just wanted to point that out and it would be installed between the main valve and your manifold. This is how mine is.
Now the next thing I want to point out is that think about what it would take to break a pipe on your system. If all pipes are buried 6-10 inches deep then the ground would have to freeze that deep provided that none of your system is above ground ie backflow preventer? I dont know what it would take to freeze the ground that deep but I would bet it takes more than 10 hrs of 20 degree weather for example. Just somthing to think about
Flow Click is a Hunter product. I'm sur Sprinkler Warehouse carries or can order for you
I think I'll go with the Weathermatic 1.5" 21000 commercial series valve as my master control valve, 0 psi loss up to 15 GPM along with the Flow-clik placed after the master control valve. I'll still use drain valves in case of an unexpected freeze and I haven't blown out the system yet. Sound any good? Where can I buy the Flow-clik? Thanks
Rhode Island freezes up also. No one uses drain valves here. Definately consider using the Flow Click- It could save you money and damage to your property.
I am in frozen Northern Illinois, but I plan on blowing out the system in the late fall anyway. Maybe I should skip the auto-drain valves and the master valve!!!
Do you have freezing winters in your area. If so are you trying to avoid compressed air in the winter? Around my area no one uses drain valves.
As for the master- You got a point, if you want to spend the extra money go for it. Be sure its a heavy duty master that will not leak as easily
Aquamatic: I haven't installed my system yet. Still fishing for the best advice. I'm saying that if my automatic drain valves have already drained, and I have a leak in one of my zone valves allowing water to leak by, then the master valve would be one more stop gap to ensure I'm not wasting water.
. Do you mean drain valves at the end of your line?? If they are leaking- thats fine- Thats what they should be doing as long as you have fully closed valves. You might also have some sand or object stuck in the valve that causes a void in the seal. Open up and check each one. One way to check for any leaks if you have city water. Is to make sure that all water is shutoff through out house. Then go to your meter and check to see if your flow meter is spinning. Now this of course can also mean you have a small leak somewhere else in the house ( faucet). If you have a shut off after your T'ed off for the sprinklers, SHut this off, Now you should only have pressure on the sprinkler line.