You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 6346 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 7 posts

Saturday, December 2nd 2006, 3:55pm

by Billw1

Yes, there is a low point drain value already in the basement. Last year he needed to access this drain while I was home to connect this hose. By installing one on the outside, will a contractor be able to accomplish the same task? How is it normally done in the Northeast?

Saturday, December 2nd 2006, 1:31am

by Wet_Boots

The outdoor low-point drain would have the advantage of not dripping water into a basement, when left open all winter. Modern installs don't really have a good way to deal with a leaking system-shutoff valve, if it's passing any quantity of water.

Friday, December 1st 2006, 4:12pm

by SprinklerGuy

He already has a low point drain valve in the basement. We see it that way here in Colorado more often than not.

Friday, December 1st 2006, 11:11am

by Wet_Boots

Downstream installation has the advantage of not presenting the possible cross-connection that upstream installation does, but we always appreciated the convenience of having a low-point drain valve that was open all winter, so water leaking past the sprinkler system shut-off valve had a means to safely drip away, and prevent freeze damage.

Friday, December 1st 2006, 5:08am

by Tom

install the drain after the backflow. they can also use the test ports on the side of the backflow, but a threaded connection after the backflow is the preferred method.

Friday, December 1st 2006, 1:21am

by Wet_Boots

Depending on your location, you may not want to add a thing. The original standard configuration would have a drain hose bib on the low point of the plumbing, just after it exits the house, and upstream of the PVB. Nowadays, this faucet could be frowned upon, as a possible cross-connection, where the codes are making the assumption that some idiot will hook up a hose and connect it to something nasty. One way around this is to use a simple PVC plug in place of a boiler drain faucet. Remove plug, connect air, winterize, replace plug.

It is more than likely that local service companies already have any adapters they need to connect their air to a PVB testcock, which means the indoor drain doesn't have to be utilized for winterizing.

Thursday, October 5th 2006, 4:11am

by Billw1

Blow-Out Port

I would like to have a drain valve (winterization blowout port) installed on the outside (there is already a drain valve and shut-off ball valve in the basement) so that I would not need to be home for them to blowout the sprinkler system.

Do I have the drain valve installed outside <b>before or after</b> the PVB (backflow preventer)??? Which way is right, I've seen it done both ways? Is this drain value required for winterization? Is this a DIY project, will an irrigation company install this, or will I need to get a plumber?