SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

After making new connections, and if the valves still don't work, check the voltages at the terminals on the clock. I've seen Vision II's and several other clocks loose the triacs and only a small voltage will pass to the valves. The chances of all 3 being bad is slim but it's worth checking.
If the VOM has an amp setting see what the draw to each solenoid is. If it's less than a quarter amp you may well have a high resistance connection underground. Also check the resistance to all the valves and see how they compare. Anything over 60 ohms shows a bad connection, too.

When checking the wires, I find it best to just redo the connections. I find it best to never assume the person before you knew what they were doing when it comes to situations such as this. All you will need to do is cut the wires, strip them, reconnect them the same way, and be sure to use water tight connectors ( to protect from corrosion). All of the valves should have a dedicated wire (a specific color) that goes from the controller to ONE side (or one of the two wires from the solenoid) of the solenoid, the other side of the solenoid (or the other wire on the solenoid) should be connected to the common wire (usually the white one). This wire is usually connected to all of the solenoids (daisy chaining) and then returns back to the controller.

Good luck!!
<><

Thanks. I'll check that as soon as it's light tomorrow. I did a quick "look and feel" on the wires, but didn't check water-tight connections. I'm not sure I know how to do that -- and the valve boxes fill with water when the system runs (like when I let the bleeder drip today while it ran manually), or in rain. BTW, I keeping wondering if my controller is wired right, too. Nearly every year at start-up time, Zone 3 (one that doesn't work) would be quirky about starting, so whoever was working on it would comment that something was wired wrong and change the wiring in the controller box. I don't know if was the same change going back and forth, or every change was altogether new, but it happened quite a few times. Usually, the zone would start working sooner or later, but sometimes that one would just be skipped. Thanks again.

Sounds to me as if you have a wiring problem. I would bet it is the common wire. Check and make sure all connections at the solenoids / valves are good, and be sure to use water tight connectors. If this does not resolve the problem, we will go from there...

I'm green at DIY Controller/Valve/Wiring, and trying to speed up my learning curve so I can figure out my problems.

I have a Toro Vision II Plus controller that won't run about half my zones, but runs the other half fine (detailed problem in Controllers, Sensors, & Remotes forum). I'm told that I need a new timer/controller box, but I'm not completely convinced. If I open the bleeder valve on the zones that won't run by the Controller, they work and run the zone for as long as I leave the bleeder open just a little and shut down a few minutes after I close the bleeder completely. Is this information "telling" of anything in particular? I figured that the controller would either work, so far as operating the zones goes, or not work, but maybe I'm wrong about that? Can someone tell me the next best step, or send me to a location here on the website that will 'splain it to me? I'm looking around, but I think I'm greener than most here, and need to back up a few steps, maybe, so I can find my bearings.

Thanks.