SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

A failing 825Y could also be losing water around a defective O-ring in the relief assembly. That's sort of a 'hidden' potential problem that relief assembies possess.

My interest in RPZs are chiefly those that promise no need to disassemble for winterizing. The Watts 009 series have that. I think the Conbraco RPZs may have this capability, since I see they have a testcock on the lower relief cover, and both checks are are oriented upwards. I haven't tried one yet.

Well sprinkler guy; I have noticed the 009 is a little better than the FEBCO 825Y. But like everyone has said, the checks are nothing but a pain in the you know what. They do fail much easier and are more sensitive to line pressure fluctuations. Just a little tip, if you ever have the relief valve dumping on an RP and can't fix it, just pull the relief valve spring. This is just a temporary fix. Remember the backflow is now failing. I have only had to do this once for a small surgery center, obviously they could not be without water. Once again I do recomend the Wilkins 975XL for the RP assembly. Very easy for winterizing and easy for repairs as well.

Who knows boots...but...when I called the Watts rep in my area....he kept saying, clean the checks...clean the checks...I kept telling him that I had cleaned them...

My problem was that I kept installing the check the way it had come from Watts....next time you have one apart...take a peek at them....I admit an idiot mistake.....the parts breakout helped slightly.....but it took me looking at another one and some experimentation to get it friggin right.....now I know.

How would a backwards-check-module RPZ even pass a mfr inspection? I'm installing 009 3/4" RPZs, but I don't look forward towards doing repairs on them. I do like the idea of winterizing without any need for disassembly.

While we are on the subject....

Tehachapi..what do you think of the Watts 009 RP? I have been installing them in areas of little clearance because they are so tiny....the last 2 I have installed I have had a problem with....one had a tiny grain of sand/dirt/stuff in the 1st check and would drip from the vent...the 2nd one had the 1st check valve installed BACKWARDS from the factory.....that dumped non stop until I figured it out....

comments?

Hey wet boots, what do ya know a febco is FAILING!! Thats a first. The reason it is dumping the relief valve in a no flow condition is the #1 check valve is failed. With no flow zone 1 and 2 are equalizing pressure which is telling the relief valve to dump. You may be able to pull out the check module and flip the rubber disc. There may also be something stuck in the check itself. When the assembly is flowing water the checks equalize throughout. Therefore the relief does not care what the pressure differentials are. Hope this helps. If need be (what I suggest)to change out the assembly, go with a WILKINS 975 XL. This will do you well.

RPZs need to be installed according to instructions, because the relief valve needs to be in the right place, relative to the first check valve, so that backflowing water can safely dump from the relief. All RPZ's are tested and approved for use with horizontal positioning, with the relief outlet on the bottom. Some are also tested and approved for use for vertical installations, as long as the flow is downward. Read the instructions.

Wet Boots,

Why does the orientation of the RPZ matter?
Shouldn't any RPZ work properly regardless of its orientation?
Or is the "90 degrees off-axis" more about having the RPZ properly servicable?
(I noticed in the pictures the shut offs were pointing towards the house making closing them difficult at best).

The RPZ is about 90 degrees off-axis. The testcocks are supposed to be pointing straight up. The 825Y is repairable, but it needs to be installed in the proper position, which means you need to do some soldering of the pipes.

****o, I have a Febco 825Y. Recently, there has been a lot of water coming out of the white discharge shield. The water comes out anytime my sprinklers are not on. When the sprinklers go off, the water starts coming out. I'm not sure what is wrong with it but while I was taking a look at it I found a warped part of a pipe on the outlet shut-off valve side. I posted a few pictures of it. Please take a look and tell me if this could be problem. Is so, how do I go about fixing it? Would be easy to fix myself (I have little-no knowledge about plumbing) or should I have a repair man fix it? Thank you for you help.

Here is a link to the pictures:
http://sumit382.angelfire.com/index.html