SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

Frank, I answered this on your new thread. Jeff

Hello again all you good people.

Well, I'm in a pickle, and I need your good help again. After successfully doing the sprinkler vqlve replacement job last December, I'm back in Florida and I had to MOVE everything I did about 20 ft back, due to a garage addition I plan on doing.

I moved the pipes fine, and have no leaks. I replaced the wires, etc, and I'm sure that was done correctly.

This is what I did wrong....after I was done with the wiring, I turned on the water. Then I went to the control box and tried to do a manual start. Nothing.

Then I remembered about the bleed screw. I turned off the water, and opened the bleed screws. There was some air hammer, and alot of air came out, then water. When doing this on each valve, when the water came out the sprinkler heads on each valve line opened a bit and water came out. When the water seemed steady coming out of the bleedscrew, I turned the bleedscrew back off.

I went to do another manual start, and....nothing. Now what do I do?

Thank you in advance for the help.

Respectfully, Frank D.

Thanks Mrfixit !

It's dark now, so i'll do that tomorrow......I'll also move those on/off levers so that they are 1/2 to 3/4 inches away from that big valve in the middle of the inlet half of the valve.

I'll then test each zone using the control panel in the garage, and if all looks good, I'll fill the dirt back in and call it done........then check it again when I return in April.......

I'll post tomorrow to let you know all is well......(I hope) Thanks!!
In a few days i'll be back to snowblowing and cold...

Frank D.

Hi Frank. Granted it's rare for the retainer to keep the valve from closing. I personally have only seen it 3 times. But it does happen. You don't live on the property and it's just a precaution. To find it and to adjust those levers you have to turn the water off and unscrew the solenoid completly. On the bottom of the solenoid you will see the white plastic piece. Just take it out and throw it away. Good luck!

Thanks Wetboots!
Yesterday was "cold" here......(not really compared to NY), but I'll test each zone today.
Still could not see any white retainer rings, and when I checked those solenoids for tightness, to get them the right tightness, not too loose, not too tight, they kinda ended up where they ended up.....could not relly get those little handle things closer to that bigger valve.

I must not be understanding something correctly, but despite that, I think it should all work ok.......I'll know later today.

I truly appreciate all the kind help here. I know it must look like I'm an idiot here about fixing stuff, but it is just that I am new to all this sprinkler stuff.......I can build a house no problem, do the plumbing, wiring, etc.......but sprinkler systems are a new thing for me...

Thanks! Frank D.

Don't worry too much about the solenoids. The white ring that was referred to is a 'keeper' that prevents the moving parts from getting lost. Old Richdel valves receiving new replacement solenoids with the keeper rings might fail to open, because the keeper interfered with the usual water flow. New Irritrol valves should work fine without having to remove any pieces.

Thanks guys!
I turned the water on......no leaks, and I bled the screw, let the air out until water came out, then retightened until the water stopped coming out of the screw. I will test each zone tomorrow.

I looked all over the solenoid for the white retainer rings but did not see them....I'll look again tomorrow. The solenoids are tight, but not too tight.

There is an "on-off" tab next to the solonoids...they do not seeem to move or do anything, and I'm not sure how to get them to be closer to the main valve stem......but I think everything is or will work ok now, so I'm not sure if it would be best just to leave things as is until i learn more about all this. It is very interesting.....all new to this northerner.

Can't wait to live here full time. I'll let you know how things go tomorrow when I test each zone.

thanks!! Frank D.

That looks good, i like the way you left yourself room in case you half to replace one of the valves.

Thank you Mrfixit!
I do appreciate the help. I did not know those solenoids turned. I also did not see the white retainers.....now I do. I will do all that you say to and report back.

Thanks again! It's amazing what you can see in that picture that I could not, but you know what to look for.

Frank D.

Hi Frank, it looks good. I've come a long way with you on this thread
so I'll see it to the end. Here's what I personally do. Have at least one of the bleeder screws open while turning the water back on. I use the valve on the end of the manifold. Or all of them. You need to get the air out of the new valves. If you have air trapped on top of the diaphragm it might not shut off all the way. Turn the water back on slowly. Then bleed the air out of the valves. Then I adjust the flow control with the valve running. I turn it clockwise til I can hear it constricting the flow some. Then I back it off about a half turn to a full turn. You don't want the flow control open all the way. The valve might not close on occasion if you have it open all the way. You might want to adjust the solenoids. I notice the lever to turn the solenoid back and forth is out of position on a couple of valves.
When you turn the solenoid all the way clockwise (do not over tighten)
you want that lever to be approx 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the valve. I also take the white retainer out of the solenoid itself and throw it away. It doesn't do a thing functionally and on occasion will keep the solenoid plunger from closing. Talk about an easy service call.
Let us know how it turns out. Good luck!