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the word "pulsate" suggests the possibility of another issue - check to see that there are no partially-closed valves in the "supply chain" - not just the sprinkler system shutoff valve, but the house shutoff valve, too - every now and then a valve is partially closed, which sets up the zone valves to oscillate between open and closed, sometimes with enough force to feel through your feet when you stand on your lawn
The "basket of pea gravel" filter is a relic of a bygone age. A real 'pro' intake screen is only one part of a system that would cost over a thousand dollars, if there was any market for such at the homeowner level. For less than $30.00, you can get a plastic strainer from Home Depot that includes a fine-mesh cover bag that should trap material that is clogging the nozzle screens. They might have also a different brand name, where the screen and the cover bag are sold separately. You need the ba...
the 5000 series of rotor heads comes with low-angle nozzles as part of the assortment included on the nozzle tree - if you don't have any low angle nozzles for the 42a, then look for some 5000 nozzle trees - low angle nozzles are easier for cutting back the spray distance
You should have a garden hose thread air inlet on the system plumbing for the winterizing. That gets the job done quicker, and with less air pressure required. Using the backflow preventer for an air input is not optimal.
You need a baby relay to activate the pump relay. This is not a joke. Some pump relays draw too much current for some controllers, so they 'think' they're looking at a short circuit. Enter the baby relay, often called an Ice Cube Relay, because they are often enclosed in clear plastic. Your B-Hyve will now be feeding only zone valves and the baby relay, so no overload. The power transformer for the B-Hyve may not be capable of activating the pump relay, so your old transformer from the Rainbird ...
100 psi isn't needed for winterizing. That practice was a relic of days using an air hose for the job. What should be done is to adapt the compressor outlet to a garden hose thread, and to use a quality garden hose for the winterizing. Then the pressure can be adjusted to 60-70 psi. The zones will blow out better without any restrictions to airflow. 100 psi in zones can destroy sprinkler heads. As for the drain valve, go ahead and replace it with a plug, so long as you are winterizing with air. ...
If you want to reduce the outlet pressure on a Greenlawn valve, the one sure method is to swap the standard valve cover to one with a flow control.
The 'pro' method of dealing with this situation is to not use antisyphon valves. Instead, a RPZ backflow preventer in the supply lets you use ordinary zone valves, with no need to worry about elevations. However, this costs extra money, and slightly reduces the available water pressure in the zones. There is a compromise of sorts available that does not require any supply plumbing changes. You don't need to relocate the antisyphon valve, so long as you add a vacuum breaker to the zone plumbing a...
The largest nozzles on the 5000 series use 8 gpm, so three of them operating at 40-50 psi means the zone is using 24 gpm. Yes, larger nozzles will spray further, if choosing them does not bring down the pressure. Try the low-angle nozzles. They may get you the distance reduction you want, without too much radius adjustment needed.
Got a photo of the brass head that needs a gasket? Have you tried plastic heads as a replacement? It happens that brass pop-up spray heads can exist with no need for gaskets. (that's the form known by the trade - they never replace any rubber on a brass pop-up spray head) Do you really need an 18-conductor cable? That need can be met by multiple cables. Most home centers can cut you custom lengths of thermostat cable and price it by the foot.
The Rain Bird 5000 series rotor comes with a nozzle tree with a dozen sizes, including low-angle nozzles that don't throw as far. Its consumer version is the 42SA, and it should have the same nozzle tree. Besides the low-angle nozzles, there are extra-large nozzle sizes that might reduce zone pressures all by themselves, because increased flow means more pressure loss in the zone, even with the zone valves wide open.
Zone valves were always meant to be sized according to the flow of water traveling through them. That comes first. A common one-inch zone valve can pass enough water to fit into 1-1/2 inch plumbing.
only the Evolution 4 is still in production
Why hasn't a Superior valve diaphragm been purchased for this valve? The solenoid is the 'tell' on the manufacturer. Superior 1-1/2 Diaphragm = 16058 Superior 1-1/2 Diaphragm Assembly = 16214
Maybe explore the 95 psi to 62 psi drop in greater detail? That isn't something that "just happens" - is there a pressure reducing valve in the circuit?
Just for the sake of scorekeeping, how much money was going to be saved by not keeping the controller All-Hunter?
Don't use distribution tubing for a buried supply line. Stick with standard plumbing materials. Where you live enters into what are 'standard' plumbing materials. Copper is for people with money to burn, except specifically for the section of pipe that penetrates the foundation wall. (above grade) As for home automation controlling a sprinkler system, that method will more or less give way to Wi-Fi enabled controllers, which might actually cost less than multiple interface components needed to o...
The first thing to check is the supply valve. Is it completely open? Is there a partially closed valve anywhere in the water pathway? Second thing to check, are the zones you said are surging otherwise behaving normally? No leaky heads? No breaks in the lines? What the questions are pointing at, is a situation where zone valves, when older (but not always older), can react to a dip in supply pressure in a way that causes the zone valves to almost close. The almost-closing zone valves make the su...
The blue glue was intended for really wet situations, like where upstream water can't quite be completely shut off. I can usually allow for the 15-30 minutes it takes for standard glues to set up leak-free under 24/7 supply pressures. I can't really advise from experience on the flex PVC. If I have a situation where tree roots are in the way, I chop the roots. After all, I'm paid by the hour. In poly pipe land, it's pretty easy to guide pipes around problem ares. Note that flex PVC is different ...
