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1 do you have a well? pump may be a submersible 2 could be dirt,broken pipe,system not designed correct 3 could be dirt or if water keeps comming out could be stuck valve,wiring issue,controller issue 4 broken pipe,not designed correctly 5 let the zones run and look for water bubbling up 6 if you get exact replacement heads you should be able to unscrew the old head from the body and screw the insides of the new head into the body of the old 7 yes but to do it correctly the new nozzle should mat...
valve is stuck open,take it apart and clean it,if that dont work,rebuild it with replacement parts for that particular valve
if you remove all zone wires from the controller marking them so you can put them back correctly,make zone 2 call for watering if you have 24v on zone 2 and 5 terminals the controller is bad.with wires still removed(no power applied)check for continuity between zone 2 wire and zone 5 wire if you have continuity there is a short somewhere
i work for a major corparation in nj that owns about 300 commercial bldgs,i'm in the bldings and grounds department a major part of my job was maintaining,repairing,alteration/additions to all the companies irrigation systems. to my understanding nobody has to be certified that i work with to do any irrigation work to my company's owned property. my question is,i have over 7 years doing irrigation work on my company's propery would that qualfiy me to take the contractors exam. i called the dep a...
has the system worked before?i would replace it with what the manufacturer of the pump suggest.also on the transformer which plugs into the wall has a va rating which stands for volt/amps.thats the maximum amout of volt/amps the 24v side of the system can have.to determine the volt/amps of the system requires some skill with a meter.if the system has worked before,then all of a sudden not worked ,i would ohm out the relay coil and solinoid coils. when the controller calls for a zone to be on doe...
i agree 14 ga. wire should be good.but there is alot of variables involved to proper wire sizing.
i can not stand contractors that don't stand behind their work.i think your getting the run around because he has no clue about irrigation!sounds like one of the many hacks running around that call them selves professionals!you can buy a pressure gauge from home depot screw it on to an out side faucet closest to water meter and check your pressure.once you know your static pressure reply back with your water meter size,and service line size coming from the street.then we'll be able to tell you t...
you had a service co. turn it on for a couple years with no troubles ,do the right thing and call them back.if your trying to save a couple bucks by not calling them,look what happens,you get a big headache.don't take this the wrong way but everyone has to make a buck.
is the water turned on?????
is the main water supply turned on?if you don't know if there is a master valve check the terminals of the controller,there should be a terminal mv if there is a wire hooked up to it ,it should be a master valve,then you know you have one somewhere.
what exactly are you having trouble with,if you found the water supply valve turn it on.make sure the controller is plugged in.read the instructions on the inside cover of the controller door it should tell you how to operate it.if the system does not come on ,call for service.
a little sarcasm is a small price to pay when asking for free advice.
if you have a seperate valve manifold to feed zones 5-9 in the back chances are the wires been cut or a bad common connection.you should call your service co. to properly troubleshoot the system.
you will not have trouble.rain water will get in and get the valve wet.
i would call back the company that repaired it,i'm sure they would have to honor their repair work if they didn't fix it the first time. if zone 2 is blowing the fuse when its calling to be on ,it's one of 3 things controller,solenoid or wire connecting the two.instead of being a parts changer the guy should have taken the time to properly troubleshoot the system.
i agree blown fuses and x-formers are caused by shorts.best bet call a pro.
when that particular zone is calling to be on,you should read 24v +/- 10% between common and that zone terminal. remove that zone wire make that zone call if 24v is between that zone terminal and common,you know the controller is good.if your reading almost 0 volts with the zone calling you have no potential difference meaning you're reading the same leg with your meter.it's like putting your meter across a live fuse to read volts you'll read 0.disconnect valve solinoid and controller ohm out wi...
is there a well for the irrigation system?
shorts cause fuses and x-formers to blow. i would disconect wire to zone 3 at the controller and zone 3 valve ohm out valve#3 solinoid .1-.10 ohms is a shorted coil 20-60 ohms is normal.check for continuity between common and zone 3 wire if there's continuity bad wire.if there is no spares you have to replace the wire.if you are not comfortable doing this i would call a pro.
