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If your Rainjet valve is the old antisyphon type, that has a metal plate under the cover screws, it is long out of production. You can buy replacement diaphragms for it, and you can also buy replacements and kits to repair it when water is constantly leaking out of the vacuum breaker cover while a zone is on. What you will have trouble finding easily is a replacement cover/bonnet with the flow control. It isn't a bad idea to have a complete new Irritol 205TF valve around to harvest repair parts ...
You seem to be intent on fixing something that isn't broken. Can you elaborate on just why? The spilled water is not a health hazard, and you probably haven't yet tried lowering the zone pressures with the flow controls on the zone valves, which would reduce any spilling.
They do not. That's where the hundreds come in. Install a Pressure Vacuum Breaker, along with underground valves, and no water exits anything but the sprinkler heads.
How many hundreds of dollars are you willing to spend to make this go away?
Quoted from "BrownsFan" Its about a 6 month old system, newly installed, hasn't given any problems except for the ------ on the display. I thought the only battery that the ESP ME used was just for the crystal display, and that is supposed to last many years. What does it mean "when using a 9V battery for remote programming"? We don't leave the ESP ME plugged in 24/7 because someone in our family has EMF sensitivity and prefers to leave it unplugged. Could that have drained the battery? thanks,...
Buy a pressure gauge and see for yourself.
How many zones are there? It might be easier just to replace the entire controller, and be sure it's all okay. A pro would also be checking the resistance of the field wiring with a multimeter, to double check that all is well.
Just like you use any faucet control to reduce the volume of flow. Turn clockwise to reduce flow, and by reducing the flow, reduce the pressure in the zone.
You might complete the experiment by switching back one head, and see what results. This isn't strictly about the spring-loading, but about whether the heads can gush water when they are not completely popped up. (sometimes called "flow-by")
There has to be a shutoff valve for the sprinkler system that is upstream of the backflow preventer (presumably a Double Check Valve Assembly), and there should also be somewhere to connect the air to completely clear all of the outdoor sprinkler plumbing. If it happens your winters are mild, and the soil freezes only rarely, and never deeply, then the underground device might be safe as is.
Not from the information you provided. In any event, this 'flow-back' has been known about for decades, and the anti-syphon valves are still code-approved.
80 psi won't damage an anti-syphon valve. If you think your zone pressures are too high, you might employ the flow controls on your zone valves.
There really isn't anything practical that you can do about that water, as it comes from the spring-loaded sprinkler heads pushing some water backwards, while the heads retract. Different sprinkler heads would have to be installed. Or maybe only one different head, just so that at least one head would gush water around the 'wiper seal' during retraction. In olden days, all spring-loaded heads would gush water as they popped down, because the seals were simpler than they are today.
As noted, working the flow controls would have completed the winterizing, and that process can be repeated each year. The controller never had anything to do with winterizing issues. The new one is still worth having, especially for the advanced features that can save water. (the Flo-Pro valves are still a candidate for complete replacement, when the time comes they misbehave during the watering season)
Sounds like you have what were known as Flo Pro valves. You are best off replacing all of them at one time, with new valves that also have flow controls. I would recommend an Irritrol 2500TF as a good choice.
The plate only simulates a rain detector in its dry un-tripped state. It doesn't do any harm. It is supposed to be removed when a rain detector is wired to the controller.
You might be dealing with voltages high enough to kill you. You need to think long and hard whether this is a do-it-yourself project.
It kind of depends on your budget and the ground conditions. Water jetting under a concrete walk can take only minutes, or it might take hours. Are there any trees in the vicinity? This is not the kind of job that lends itself to a serviceman who has to charge by the hour. Pros don't have to water jet, since they have special boring equipment, but the use of that equipment requires setup and excavation beyond what simple water jetting involves. By the way, this water jetting is only for concrete...
Water will work, but the results can be random. Depending on how wide the sidewalk is, and how long your arms are, you can sometimes make a tunnel with nothing but a good trowel.
Five seconds is long enough. If this is going to maybe happen again, you need to take steps to prevent it.
