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I've installed many of these, and have never heard of expirienced that. Vincent I've never had a serivce call for Fertigator, only to refill the fertilizer! I've installed over 50 of them this year!
Hmm, Lets start off with the simple things: Are all your wires connected proprly to the controller/valves? If it's more then one valve like you are talking about, you more then likely have a spilt wire or your common (ground) wire isn't correct. Let me know what you find out!!!
Leaf blowers can't compress air....you need some type of pressure...
You might want to check out this thread: http://www.sprinklertalk.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=150
It won't be a problem.........
Try your local sprinkler distributor.
Are the solenoids and bleeds tight? It is probably because of the sligh slope. Water flows from high areas to low areas. I would replace those two heads with heads with check valves in them, such as the Rainbird 5000 plus.
If the rectangular parts is 32 feet wide, I think I'd use rotors. I prefer Rainbird heads. That is all I install.
The check valve shoundn't hurt anything, but what I would do is replace them all with 5000+'s
Most likely the insides are shot. I would simply replace it.
Your best bet would be to use Teflon tape.
Educate me then. Why is it that most baseball fields/commercial designs with long runs, they reduce the pipe size as the run goes on? Conserve flow for the last head?
If it's a slow leak, I wouldn't worry about it as the ground will absorb most of it rather quickly. I have never used swing joints except for funny pipe. Someone else here could be able to help you.
If the house shut off is after the meter, I wouldn't tap in there. You won't be able to shut the house water off while your tapping into the line, much less you'll have a wet mess, that you won't be able to shut off. As far as connections go, a compression tee works for PEX.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by HooKooDooKu</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">My longest runs will be at least 200' i'm sure. Should I telescope to my 2nd manifold from 1 1/4" to 1" pipe if runs become longer than 100' or how would you guys do it? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></bloc...
Volume. The spigot is probably only running on 1/2" pipe. The smaller the pipe, the more pressure, but less volume.
Would it be in the middle of the lateral?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Keokolo</i> <br />****o Tom, yea, mist is the culprit. What if the heads are Toro, does it make a difference? And what do you mean by a valve that has flow control? What do I look for on the valve for flow control? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> There are valves with a flow control knob on top of some of th...
That is about your only choice, unless you put a high grade filter in the system.
Why not spend the money and get a durable plastic box. Eventually, the wood will rot, causing the hole to cave in, you may never be able to find your valves again. Secondly if they are anti-siphon valves that is ok to put them above the ground, inline valves are typically for an underground situation. Bury them and put them in a plastic box.
