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I have the ESP 8 LX+ and it is only a standard key cylinder. Depending upon how much trouble it is getting another key from rainbird, any locksmith can pick this and make a new key for you once it is opened.
A flaring tool works good: http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/detail.aspx?ID=1677 You can also use a hair dryer to soften up the poly pipe.
You can mail or fax a survey of your property to Rainbird, Hunter, Toro and they will send you back a complete system design. Check their web sites for this. You would need to send in water pressure and gallons per minute figures too. These are not 100% (i.e. I would not just go out an order the parts list they send back). This would give a decent starting point however and also give you a ball park on how many zones, sprinkler heads, spray nozzles, etc. that will be dealing with. I had a toro s...
The water pressure is high coming into the house. It is in the range of 80-85PSI and I don't complain about the high water pressure. I am sure that the double check valve and piping have cut this back a bit. Maybe the pressure at the heads is close to their max? I haven't checked this yet and will try to attach a gauge to the last head connection on the zone to see what the pressure really is. I did turn the valve's flow control down to 50% (about 4 turns fully open then back 2 turns) and this m...
Thanks! Is there a special adaptor available for the nozzle fitting? If not, then I'll make up an adaptor for the pipe thread fitting the head screws onto.
Are there any tips for adjusting the flow control on Rainbird PGA valves? Specifically what should I be looking for in spray patterns? I had adjusted one or two zones down a bit because of misting. There seemed to be too much pressure at the Rainbird 1804 SAM-PRS sprinkler heads.
There is also a big price difference between all stainless steel worm gear clamp and all stainless steel oetiker crimp on clamps. The all SS worm gear clamps are at least a $1.00 each and you may need 100+ of them. This gets expensive fast. You should use SS worm gear clamps on the valve connections which you may need to disconnect at some point in the future if you are using poly pipe. It is easier to unscrew the clamp in a valve box then cut the crimp on clamp.
I would start at the house water main line regulator where you hear the noise, make a bypass pipe, replacing the regulator and turn on the irrigation system and see if the noise stops of just moves to somewhere else in the plumbing. If it stops, then replace the regulator. It could be fluttering which may be corrected with a new, higher quality regulator. If it can still be heard, then put back the regulator and start bypassing or test replacing the other items (regulators, check valves, filters...
Did you check if the nozzle is a strip pattern? You can use a center strip nozzle but these have more length than you need for 8 ft center. If there's something on each end besides concrete, then the overspray may not be a big deal. Otherwise it sounds like you need the head relocated and another added as mentioned already.
Thanks for the help. I'll use the 1" poly X 1/2 FPT and 1" poly X 3/4 FTP combination "T" and ells to MPT funny pipe straight and ells. I didn't see the 1" x 3/8" insert couplings and "T"s. It's alot easier if I can see all the parts in front of me. Going back and forth with web pages is a pain trying to see what fits together and what doesn't.
I'm in the process of putting together a materials list for a sprinkler system on this site. I've found just about everything I need. I would like to connect poly from the valves to the sprinkler heads using 1 inch poly. The sprinkler heads have 3/4 or 1/2 FPT and I need 1 inch poly to MPT for these sizes. I see the swing pipe fittings, but the size is not listed for the poly connection. It just says 1/2 MPT - no 1/2 MPT & 1 inch poly for the specs. Am I missing something or is it assumed to be ...
