little side-not/addition to what wet boots said. there are 12 normal nozzles that are read with different precip. rates. those grey nozzles are 'low-angle' nozzles for a different trajectory. there are 7 of those nozzles plus one blank nozzle for plugging.
Tony raises an excellent point. i would say out of 800 customers i have, at least half of them play with the clock and manage to get 2 3 or even 10 start times programmed in, and that will cause exactly that probly. also, i regards to the comment about orbit controllers, just remember you get what you pay for...especially in this industry. i would recommend going with a hunter pro-c to ensure that you have a good, solid and durable clock that will have a long life. but check those start times fi...
ok well i will start this off by saying that the hunter valves are crap in my personal opinion. alot of guys in the industry dispute this claim, and i think that is only because hunter givess kickbacks to big buyers every season. now on to the issue of the rainbird valves, i never took a liking to any of the models at all. i've had them all apart(as well as almost every other valve in the industry) and i just find that the interior design is a little goofy, and the diaphragms seem to be cheesy a...
actually in my opinion the srs is a better head, but only if you dont use those hunter nozzles...cuz they suck. srs with the rainbirad nozzles(which is one of the ONLY rainbird products i will put any credit in =/) will work good, but the hunter ps is a perfectly good spray head, we use them on new jobs all the time.
Good question...Most of the time a backflow device is not "required", but is probly one of the safest moves you can make. No matter who you go with, make sure you have the guy install one. Now for the clock issue, you can really go with either one altho the ICC is a little overkill for your project. The PRO-C is expandable to up to 15 zones, and it's a lil bit cheaper. I put a pro-c on all my jobs that are less than or up to 12 zones, ICC's for the bigger jobs(usually like 15-30 zones)
<font face="Courier New"></font id="Courier New">Very good advice on that Tony...I never knew that the nelsons would swap like that with PGP. I got 5 years in the business and i still pick up somethin new every day. And cheers to all the advance member postings here, you guys have alot of great things to say, and a very professional outlook when it comes to parts and stuff.
<font face="Courier New"></font id="Courier New">And also that most obvious answer to the question(not that the caulk idea is bad...i like that one) get a rack of hunter "low angle" nozzle, there is a "P" nozzle on there. I just call it a dummy nozzle
<font face="Courier New"></font id="Courier New">Blazing saddle tee? Not familiar with that term, you should be able to find a pvc tee that's slipxslipx 1/2" or 3/4' inch thread. If so just get that and screw the funny pipe el into that and run your new head. If not get 1" pvc slipxslipxslip and get a glue in bushing to threads...hope that helps
