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I don't see any reason why not....
Could have gotten a spike... Disconnect power to the timer....AND....remove the 9v battery...let it sit for a minute or two..then connect power again and try it......
Or stick the screwdrvier between the green lid and the blac box..very skinny area and pry up...over and over and over...when you get the lid off..turn it over and step on the white locks really hard to break them off...I hate those things.
Back circuit board is probably fried.....replace the entire timer..i know it is harder....but do it.
yes the spigot can reduce the flow tremendously....3/4 pex is approx 11gpm...
LOL...... I haven't seen one in awhile..but if I remember correctly the hammer helps the spray pattern immensely...
yes it exists....it also comes in coupler form......you may need to look here at Sprinkler Warehouse or at a commercial sprinkler warehouse..good luck.
Yikes.....it isn't easy to explain w/out holding them in my hand....but I'll give it a go... The nozzle turret....(top part of head that includes the nozzle) depresses down when it is unlocked....you unlock it with a flathead screwdriver on the top of the nozzle turret....you will see a "button" sort of thing with a flat head screwdriver slot....not in the middle of the nozzle...but offset...it looks like a button. Turn that left to unlock the turret....this is easiest to do while water is runni...
Or It may not be getting enough water to pop up...due to an obstruction in the pipe leading to it...
Try the solenoid...could be a nipple protruding from the solenoid plunger seal.....
Most of us don't use clamps... they make that barbed fitting.....you may need to go to an actual supply house in your area to get it.....not HD or Lowes...
They don't relate...read the chart across...the #9 puts out 5.2 gallons at 50psi In my opinion you would be better off splitting into separate zones if you can....16 heads even with number 1 nozzles will be pushing it..saddles or no saddles...1 inch poly is going to struggle. The water source is important, but you are limited by the 1 inch poly.... What are the spacings? How far apart are the heads?
Do yourself a favor and call a technician... Ken Wells bought my company and he is very honest, reliable and does good work..... Email me your info...I will pass it onto him....I hesitate to post his number here....spam and all....but send me an email through this forum and I will forward to him.... The Imperials go bad after years of service...they can be repaired...but only a technician with experience will be able to differentiate between a timer problem and some valve problems...it sounds li...
Who knows boots...but...when I called the Watts rep in my area....he kept saying, clean the checks...clean the checks...I kept telling him that I had cleaned them... My problem was that I kept installing the check the way it had come from Watts....next time you have one apart...take a peek at them....I admit an idiot mistake.....the parts breakout helped slightly.....but it took me looking at another one and some experimentation to get it friggin right.....now I know.
I have used one.....no problems thus far....very spendy.... The plumbers around here don't like them....but I could see that they might be usefull in a situation where you didn't have any PEX fittings and you needed to tap the main.....they work on PEX...CPVC...and CU....I have only installed them on CU....and they are shockingly easy to work with....
While we are on the subject.... Tehachapi..what do you think of the Watts 009 RP? I have been installing them in areas of little clearance because they are so tiny....the last 2 I have installed I have had a problem with....one had a tiny grain of sand/dirt/stuff in the 1st check and would drip from the vent...the 2nd one had the 1st check valve installed BACKWARDS from the factory.....that dumped non stop until I figured it out.... comments?
Thanks....always looking for ways to be a leg up....
I doubt you will find the compressor you are looking for the traditional way...you will need to speak with some heavy equipment companies....Ingersol Rand....etc. I think it is well worth paying the $60-$80 per year to have it done professionaly...occassionaly you will be able to find a used tow behind compressor that will suit your needs for under $5000.00....but you would never need it again....seems like a no brainer to me... Post your city/state and I will help you find a good contractor...I...
did he design the system as part of his proposal package? Did he charge you for this? Thanks
