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Any hints when burying sprinkler lines near large trees under the drip lines? Due to the layout of my yard, I will have no choice but to run the poly lines under the drip lines of existing large maple & oak trees. Do I need to take any precautions to protect the sprinkler lines from future root damage, such as vinyl siding in the trenches? I'm not too concerned with unavoidable damage to the tree roots while trenching.
Any suggestions for tubing clamps for 100 psi black polyethylene tubing with barbed fittings? System operating pressure will be 55 psi max. Lines will be buried within the frost zone. I was toying with the idea of using nylon double snap-grip type hose clamps (see picture link). These have good corrosion resistance and are good for low temperatures. They are much cheaper than 304 or 316SS worm-drive type hose clamps. Any comments or experience with these type of clamps? http://www.mcmaster.com/c...
My system has 12 zones with 4 zone valves per valve box. When running 3/4" poly pipe from the 3 valve boxes out to the sprinkler heads, the 4 lines exiting the boxes will be run in the same trench initially. Question: With 4 poly lines in each trench, would it be a good idea (or not) to loosely tie-wrap them together every 10 feet or so? Trench depth is about 12" max. in a freezing locale. What about further away where there are only 2 or 3 lines in a trench? Tie-wrap or not?
Getting ready to install a new residential underground lawn sprinkler system that hopefully will last many years (PVC and/or poly pipe). But nothing lasts forever. Keeping in mind how difficult is it to pinpoint the exact location of a pipe/tube leak in a main or lateral line or fitting, any suggestions on designing in a automatic leak detection system? Probably would be someting electronic, alarming when a leak occurs and providing location.
I would go with copper over galvanized outdoors. You can certainly bury copper without too many worries; in fact copper is used for main water supply lines to many homes. As far as PVC cracking over the winter, it certainly becomes brittle when cold. So, if it's full of water and freezes, or if it's hit when cold, it may crack, but it will hold up well otherwise, especially if buried. A last PVC concern though, if you have any ground movement (frost heaves or settlement), that may cause trouble ...
Still trying to decide whether to go with PVC sch. 40 or polyethylene pipe in a freezing locale. I'm leaning toward PVC. Here's the question: any experience with corrosion of the stainless steel clamps used on poly pipe fittings? What is the lifespan of these clamps? [?] I think they are usually type 304 stainless. I would hate to have to replace them every so often.
A dual check valve & vacuum breaker meets city code here, so I will be using an indoor master valve for the reasons previously mentioned (also, the controller I have [Toro Lawn Master 53603] can't handle two valves in parallel). It sounds like the dual check should be installed upstream, not downstream of the master valve as I had planned? I was actually thinking of the Hunter PGV or HPV with plastic bodies (1"). My concern is: can long-term leak-free operation of the master valve be assured in ...
The main sprinkler supply line downstream of the water meter branches into two 3/4" copper lines that exit the basement at different locations. The master valve needs to be upstream of the branch in the basement in order to control the whole system (12 zones total). Any recommendations as to manufacturer and model number?
I've decided to use a Master solenoid valve (24VAC) in my new residental sprinkler system. It will be installed indoors in the basement. Leakage is unacceptable. What are recommendations for a reliable leak-free master valve? The system will have 3/4" copper/brass/PVC piping. Plastic body or brass body? Flow control? Jar-top?
