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I have a question about winterizing my system. In reading through all of the information about winterizing my system it mentions to start with the furthest zone, and work you way back to the blowout/shutoff. I assume the easiest way to cycle through all of the zones would be to use the controller, and have it set to run each zone for 2 minutes and then move on to the next zone. My question is really pertaining to the zones closest to my blowout/shutoff. I have 5 zones (zones 9-13) that are in th...
If you have 12-13 zones, there should be 12-13 valves in your yard somewhere. There should be a valve for each zone, so I would assume you have more than 2 vlave boxes in your yard. You can clean up the wires in the boxes, but I would be careful in not cutting or disconnecting any of the wires. The 1/4 turn is for manually opening an closing the valves. The valve should be in the off position at all times, unless you are manually opening the valve for some reason. The timer activates the solenoi...
If it says PGP on the top of it, it's a rotor, and not a spray head. If this is the case, then if you extend the head up out of the body, it will have a red or gray nozzle in it, and it will have a small number on it indicating what size nozzle is installed in the spray head. This one broken head shouldnt prevent the entire system from working, unless you only had one zone for your entire system. Replacing the head is a relatively simple task. If you dig the head up, it's most likely attached t...
Did you do any design calulations before doing all of this? 1/2" poly sounds awefully small for pipe to be used. I would assume this is only for your latterals and not for the main too?
I can't speak for the differences between these 2 valves, but I recently installed 13 of the PGV valves and have had no problem with them.
I have the smae valve, and I dont get much water coming out of the relief valve when pressurizing the unit. The amount of water coming out doesnt even amount to a stream of water. If you constantly have water coming out I would take it apart & check for debris.
There are too many factors for a simple answer, pressure, GPM, etc.
For the most part it is as simple as digging the old one up & replacing with a new one, it just depends on what the installer used at the end of the latteral to connect the head. Most likely you will have a swing joint or funny pipe which gives you some flexibility for head height adjustment.
The flow control on the valves is simply a valve that lets more or less water flow into the valve. Turning it one way opens it up, and the other way closes it. Maybe you have a bad solenoid thats sticking in the open position. Is it the same valve(s) this happens to, or is it happening randomly?
I imagine each location is different, but where I live the ONLY thing the county cared about was the backflow device. They could care less about the irrigation system. Where I live they didn't require any plans, the only requirement was that the backflow device be installed properly. I got my permit, installed by backflow device, ran a section of mainline (capped it), and got it inspected weeks before i even began to install my system. I would call the county/city and ask specifically what they ...
I guess it really depends on what you want to do, and how much money you want to spend. If you want the area automatically irrigated, then you can install an irrigation system. If you don't mind hand watering, then you could go the route of running a supply pipe below your frost line, and then install an a hose bib with a below the frost line valve. I did this in my previous house to get water to the area where my cars were parked so I could wash the cars. It was a pain rolling up 100 plus feet ...
The only other way to adjust this would be to turn the whole rotor assembly (body & all) while it's in the ground. Unscrewing the cap and re-alingning the head isnt that hard to do, probably much easier than trying to turn the entire rotor.
You want to use purple primer, and make sure the pipe is clean. You don't want to rely on the primer to clean dirt and grit off the pipe.
I assume you have 2 black wires coming off your valve. One of the wires coming to the valve will be a common wire (your white), and the other would be the hot wire from the controller. If the white wire is the only wire disconnected, then you can re-connect this to your valve and everything should be fine. Just make sure you use a waterproof connector so your connection doesn't corrode. The only way the wire going to the solenoid should have been hot, was if the controller was set to turn that v...
You can find a lot of information on this site about pipe sizes & pressure loss http://irrigationtutorials.com/
Just assuming you are opperating at 30psi your heads are as follows 15' 360 - 3.72 GPM 15' 180 - 1.86 GPM (each) 15' 120 - 1.24 GPM 12' 120 - .84 GPM Rainbird heads - .87 GPM ? Just for the hunter heads you are pushing 9.52 GPM, and I would guess with the 2 rainbird spray heads you are pushing over 11 GPM which I imagine is too much for the 3/4" piping.
This will tell you everything you need to know http://irrigationtutorial.com/
My supply line to the house was 1", and I ended up using 1-1/2 pipe for my mainline. Why 1-1/2 do you ask, well becuase I had 400' of mainline to get all the way to the back of my house. I used the larger pipe for 2 reasons, the pressure loss in 1-1/2 pipe was less than 1-1/4, and it also turned out that the 1-1/2 pipe was cheaper. I ended up having to use a RPZ valve (1"), which I installed right near my 1" supply line, and then stepped up my mainline to 1-1/2 right after the backflow. I would ...
