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As was mentioned a bit earlier, use a box! Keep a couple inches of soil on top of the lid for grass to grow, and use one big enuff to get your paws into it for changing the diaphragm(s). Now get yourself a Krik-It audio locator ('scuse the shameless plug!!) and you'll always find your valves within minutes of firing the clock..... Bill
I'm suspect of valve #1 and the Master Valve.... The first two solenoids' resistances were kinda low, and I didn't see were the master valve was tested for resistance. I've had solenoids read well within their limits (for any given manufacturer) start shorting out after a period of time [from 10 seconds to as much as 3-5 minutes] - and the longer the solenoid had power, the less the resistance became finally breaking the circuit... As a soleonid begins to short out the windings, the resistance b...
Sometimes electrical nuances are tricky. When you test the resistance to the valves from the clock as Wet Boots suggested, be sure it's 20 Ohms or more on each valve solenoid. Different solenoids (brands) have different resistances. Most are 24-25, 45 more or less, and Toro is generally 55 Ohms per.... Wire lengths can add an Ohm or two depending on distance from the clock. Check continuity across from 1 to 2, 1 to 3, 1 to 4 and so on. Each should read twice what the common to valve resistance i...
Depending on the manufacturer of the valves being used in the system, most solenoids are available and replacable. First thing to do is disconnect the lead wire from #4 from the clock and fire that station. If the "fuse" function doesn't go on alert, reconnect the wire, locate #4 valve in the field and do the same thing there. If the fuse function works again, you pretty much know the solenoid is at fault. If the solenoid is disconnected and the fuse alert STILL comes on, there's a short in the ...
If it's a typical ASV device built into the valve top as so many valves are today, the lid does screw off. You gotta use the pliers, but use a large set of 2 wrenches to hold the body steady while "breaking" the top loose. Careful, tho' and be ready to replace it if things go wrong. If some yokel overtightened it, things could break. It's a crap shoot..... good luck!
As Josh said, you can do it, but it can be a bit complex. If you're familiar with electronics, you can drive 24/lighting input voltage relays to run each lighting transformer in any give area. I've done about a half dozen systems and have had good results. Lighting can be made to turn on and off at each "station" at designated times, just as with sprinkler zones.
Try pulling the backup battery and disconnecting the power source for a few minutes, and re-program. The clock may be "bonkers"
First off, see if you have continuity to all the solenoids. Check with a VOM. They shold all be in the same area, resistance-wise. If so, make sure ALL the zones have voltage output in the 29VAC area.' You can check each valve when it's on with a small telecsoping pick-up magnet to check if it's actually fired. (You can feel the 60 cycle buzz when the magnet is lifted off the top of the solenoid when it's fired.) Next step is water supply (are all valves/V.B.'s open. Last is diaphragms. Being an...
Don't give up so easily. Like Fixit said, shut down the water supply to the valves and let the box dry out a bit. THEN look for the leak in the box. It may take several minutess.... and if it does, it's digging time to find it.
Some of the 2600 valves had a knob just below the solenoid that could also be turned back and forth to internally bleed the valve. If yours has one be sure it't all the way closed clockwise as well as the solenoid. Also.... if the drip valve has a center stem (flow control) tighten that down a half turn at a time while it's running and see if the valve closes. It may well be damned near fully closed before it does close! If it continues to run and will only stop passing water until the flow cont...
After making new connections, and if the valves still don't work, check the voltages at the terminals on the clock. I've seen Vision II's and several other clocks loose the triacs and only a small voltage will pass to the valves. The chances of all 3 being bad is slim but it's worth checking. If the VOM has an amp setting see what the draw to each solenoid is. If it's less than a quarter amp you may well have a high resistance connection underground. Also check the resistance to all the valves a...
Perhaps to clarify a bit further, each "program" is like a separate clock. The only thing they have in common is knowing what the date and time are. Each PROGRAM has it's own start time(s), individule run times per zone, and days to run. ONE start time per day usually suffices for most sprinkler applications. Any zones assigned to a specific PROGRAM start on the assigned days and run SEQUENTIALLY after the program starts on those given days. Like Boots sez.... Don't fall into the trap of trying ...
Check the resistance at both the clock and solenoid and compare that to the others. Unless they are a fair distance from one another,(a couple hundred feet)the readings should be similar if they are all the same type solenoid. If you get a considerable difference reading at the problem valve and it's several ohms higher, you probably have a hi resistance connection somewhere in the circuit. And since you apparentlly have other colored wires in the clock, try using TWO other colors for hot and co...
Geeesshh!!! PMS Lush? Professionalism? Replace and not repair when NEEDED OR NOT? Screw the customer when ya can charge for a new valve AND labor, too? It's all about the money, eh, LUSH? Well I guess ethics aren't really in question here, let alone one's integrity. Will you ever quit rockin' the boat? You're quite the CONtrary CON-tractor in almost all subjects on this board. You apparently didn't learn from YOUR mom that if you can't say something decent (in this case, constructive)then keep y...
The round box might well be a gate or ball valve supplying the system. Nothing ventured, nothing gained! Have a look!
One thing to consider is if the valve used is not passing a lot of water, it may have a tough time closing. There MUST BE BACKPRESSURE on a valve diaphragm or it won't close properly. Drip systems are well known for not closing down if there's less than a 1/4 gal per minute flowing thru' them. Consider adjusting the flow control on the top of the valve if the dripping continues for much more than an hour or two at the lowest head. You can also put a screwdriver to your ear with the business end ...
Is the valve in queston a Rainbird Brass valve? They're notorious for the downstream male adapter plugging the bleeder port. Mrfixit and WetBoots gave sage advice.
Just as an addendum, guy, the HR-1 valve is notorious for cracks in the valve seat. Even with a diaphragm replacement, the valve will often continue weeping. Good sign of a crack. They're hard to see until the valve is out of the ground and can be turned in the light for better observation.
Same animal, new molds/name. Same working parts, just cheaper made. Be sure to remove the plunger retainer on the solenoid when you install it.... and "don't pinch the nip!!"
Boots, I think Tony (Sprinkler Guy) might be referring to the old "hot common" Irritrol clox.... much like the old radios you refer to that we've both obviously worked on I've noted, too, that most all the better clox today have a position for an "earth ground" wire... PIA as it may be, it's a good idea... gives a great path for lightening and really "lights up" those MOV's!!!
