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There are some products out there that you can use to stop "water hammer". One of these is called "Water Hammer Arrestors". This would just be installed in the line, but depending on the severity of the water hammer, you might have to have multiples or a very large one. Another avenue would be to switch to a higher quality valve and one that may offer pressure regulation. Sometimes this can eliminate water hammer. One of the tricks that golf courses used war a series of fluid resisters in the so...
I see, sorry your the same guy with the lighting question and the Hunter Pro-C. Most low voltage lighting transformers (professional series that is) are rated to a maximum of 300 watts per common. Can you describe what the transformer has for terminals, describe it's craftsmanship (what it is made of) and etc....
Unfortunately no. Is there any history to the transformer, maybe something near it when you found it, was is hooked up to something... etc...
Yes you can, but it really is no benefit to you to do so. You will still need to get a low voltage transformer for the lights, and most of those have a modular type connection for a timer or photocell. Since the both are reasonably priced (photocell & timer) its a better idea to use them instead. A photo cell can't be used with the Hunter ICC / Hunter Pro-c controller without heavy and complex wiring, so that will limit the functionality of the low voltage lighting system.
There is no difference in performance from the 5000 series to the 5000 plus series. The only difference is features (water shut off feature). Wet Boots is correct on the Maxi-Paw as being the performer in low pressure, but with all impacts, the need servicing over the years. There is a low pressure setting on the Maxi-Paw that can aid in the performance. You can change the spring on the splash arm from one location to another. This is usually only recommended on the smallest nozzle sizes, but ha...
Be careful though. This problem has been known to disappear and then reappear at random. If I remember correctly, the problem lies in the ribbon cable that connects the faceplate to the rear panel. Just keep your eyes on it for the next few days. Only time will tell!
Can't remember the name of the valve (thinkin' it's a Watts Regulator Brand Valve) but it has a bypass that regulates the pressure that activates the diaphragm (Not a pressure regulating valve). In a since, it would reduce the pressure to a more manageable amount inside the valve to eliminate the water hammer (how fast and slow the diaphragm closes). I will have to dig around and find it again, and It may be too expensive of a cure.
What is the model on the controller? As far as the rotor, yes. Hunter PGP rotor are what you should replace your older ones with. As far as the bursted pipe. Best help I can give you is to call a friend and ask for some help. You may wonder aimlessly around looking for some wet areas, or some areas with some disturbed soil. That may point to the leaks if there are more. Best of Luck!
OK, where to begin. First thing first. You may have a controller that has some "issues". There have been some instances throughout the US with this exact problem and there is either no MV hooked to the controller (master valve or pump start relay) and it shows this error, or there is a legitimate problem with your master valve. First, look to see if you have a wire, or wires, hooked to the MV circuit. If so, disconnect it and restart the controller. If the problem goes away, you have a bad solen...
Do you have a completely level yard? Is the zone that leaks downhill from all the others? If so, you have what we call low head drainage. It is an easy problem to fix with a few added parts. If not, it could be a valve problem, but would be rare. I have only seen a couple of valves that would seep / or leak (not completely closing) and neither were Rain-bird (Hardie Ultra-Flow).
Are you by chance running the controller manually. If so, the controller will bypass any sensor interrupt. If not, I would suggest replacing the unit while the warranty is still valid.
I am to assume since you stated you have a "control box", that your well contains a submersible pump. If this is correct, then I will assume you have some major problems. Since subs are usually set deep in the water they very rarely quit pumping water (from droughts, drawdowns & etc) unless there is a pump failure, But this also does not mean that they won't. Take a look at the equipment near your controller for your irrigation. Look to see the products that are there, and take note of model num...
The 100 PGA valve is a sound choice. It is durable, proven and has some extra benefits that other valves do not. My only concern is the amount of water you will need to use on your drip zone to allow the valve to function correctly (more than likely all you will need is some filtration before the valve). I have provided a link for you to research the valve. Best of luck! www.rainbird.com/landscape/products/valves/pga_series.htm
Nearly any 12 zone / station controller will replace this unit. You might have to do some slight alterations, but none the less any should work. I would recommend the ESP-12 LX model, it is a sound unit with many features. If you however, were comfortable with the unit you had previously, you might try the ESP-4M (modular controller, with 3 modules). It also is a sound unit, but far less expensive.
Please be a little more specific. We need to know what type of system you have. Do you have a pump, is it on municipal water? The more info you give, the better we can help.
If we are talking about spray heads and not rotors, try this link..... www.rainbird.com/diy/faqs/faq_sprays.htm
Without being able to see what you are describing, my guess would be on the Fertigator.
If you are wanting to combine down to 1 or 2 controllers, my recommendation would be the Rain-Bird ESP-LX or maybe even the ESP-LXM (Modular). They are both easy to install, program, and should give you many years of trouble free service.
Standard PVC and a quick-fix coupling (aka flo-span coupling) link for reference ( www.pep-plastic.com/manufacturers/spears/pdf/Fc-1-0102.pdf ) Effectively the coupling will allow you to cut out a section and replace the affected area, then you would just stretch the coupling (extend) and glue in the other. Basically saves you from digging up your back yard.
Kinda sounds to me as if there is a problem with the poppet in the PVB. Try following the steps to correctly seat the poppet and see if that will help. This link will be helpful...www.febcoonline.com/pdf/980001.pdf
