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I suppose that's what I may have to do. I always get my feathers ruffled when the cost of a product far exceeds its cost to make. Cost for materials, labor, and distribution on a single backflow enclosure must be no more than $20 yet they sell for so much more. Sure there will be some nonrecurring cost related to development but those costs are typically made up for by the profit on each unit sold. Similarly I wish someone had a convincing explanation for why furniture and mattresses cost so muc...
Hi, I can't seem to find a good place to buy an enclosure for my backflow preventer/filter assembly. Even SprinklerWarehouse.com doesn't seem to sell any, unless I haven't been looking in the right way. My backflow preventer (RPZ) and filter are installed alongside my house, above ground. I don't have the exact inner dimensions the enclosure would need to be off-hand but I can't even seem to find a decent supplier to begin with. All the places I have found sell ridiculously overpriced products. ...
Hi, I just plugged in my new Hunter Pro-C controller and a "NO AC" message flashes a couple times on the screen immediately after plugging it in, then the message goes away. If I unplug the controller and plug it in, same thing, and the message always goes away again after a couple seconds. The manual says the message obviously indicates that no AC power is available to the unit but doesn't say whether the message would be persistent or not. I don't have a battery inserted in the controller yet ...
The Irritrol Web site doesn't list Windows Vista in the system requirements. However, often programs will run on both operating systems as their underlying foundation isn't much different. Have you actually tried installing and using the software on Vista? Occasionally you'll encounter a program that will fail during the install process saying that it is incompatible with your operating system but this is rare. I say give it a shot if you haven't already. If you have tried to install it and it d...
Thanks for the help and info guys. I had read on the Ez Flo and Fertigation sites that an RPZ or PVB would be the best type of protection against backflow for a fertigation system, but I know you guys are right. I'll swing by Lowes and see if I can find a reasonably priced RPZ or maybe Ewing. I was just trying to be cheap but 1.) it doesn't make sense to pinch pennies when it comes to safety, and 2.) it would cost me more in the long run if I failed an inspection. I don't think they perform insp...
When you say Washington, do you mean the state or the capitol? I live in Washington State so if that's where you mean I'd like to know why you favor DCAs over PVBs, aside from the concerns over cross-contamination with fertigation. I am actually considering installing a DCA instead just so I don't have this ugly thing on the outside of my house and compared to the overall cost of the system so far it's really not much of a relative price different between a PVB and DCA. I think I'll definitely h...
Now I think I completely understand what you're talking about. I updated the drawing slightly to show the "bypass" ball valve on the mainline. The more I think about this design the more I like it too. I'm not particularly worried about being able to easily remove the EZ Flo coupler. The unit's hoses can disconnect from the coupler pretty easy to bring the unit itself inside for winter. This design, with being able to completely bypass the coupler, seems like it's very well tailored to winterizi...
I'll think about using the U-type bypass you mentioned but the EZ Flo already has in/out shut-off valves on it. In a standard installation water will always flow through the coupler but I don't see this restricting flow or causing much pressure loss if the unit is "off" (shut-off valves are closed). (Edited to add: Is this the type of design you're talking about? Click for larger version.) My main question is still what is the most logical order to put these items in? Does anyone see any issue w...
Hi all, I have three items that will be installed between my backflow preventer and the valves: A manual drain valve (probably Stop & Waste) to release pressure in the mainline for repairs/winterizationA quick coupler for winterizationAn Ez-Flo systemIn which order (from upstream to downstream, aka flow direction) would you put these? I'm thinking that it probably doesn't matter but if anyone has a strong opinion I'd like to hear it. I guess my only worry is blowing out during winterization thro...
Wonderful. Sounds like everyone (at least of the two responses) is on the same page. I wasn't sure exactly what is happening inside the controller with that connection versus the other connections (I haven't looked at a controller or valve internal wiring diagram) so I figured it was better safe than sorry. I plan to run the 2 x 4-Strand bundles to wire up all six valves as shown, plus an additional 4-Strand bundle to each valve box in case I ever need to double my capacity. This is probably ove...
Hi there, I'm about to start my sprinkler installation at the end of this month and I was hoping for a little wiring advice for the "common" connection between valves. The diagrams, explanations, and installation instructions say that this is a "daisy-chained" (a.k.a. serial) connection between valves. In my installation I have two valve boxes (each with three valves) pretty far apart, so in order to daisy-chain this exactly as in the installation instructions for the controller, I would need to...
Rainbird calls their manifold kit parts "half union". But half union could also just be a fancy way of saying male/female threads. I don't know if any of the parts have O-rings in them, as I haven't picked them up. I'll try to follow-up here when I build the manifold and let you know how it does on leaks. I may have to replace the nipples in my diagram with Rainbird MS-NIP parts, and then add-in MS-MA parts to mate with the M-buttress threads. That would add extra cost and space into the design,...
Because I'm a masochist, here's the final design I'll probably use which utilizes RainBird manifold kit parts. My main reason for going this direction is because I like the idea of the RainBird manifold pipe (MS-DM, MS-TM, MS-QM) and not having to stress about building my own manifold. Plus the one-design design means I don't have to worry about leaks unless the pipe actually cracks. http://www.jusme.org/manifold_design_final.gif I like the idea of using "risers" (upside-down U shape mentioned b...
And just for anyone following along with the thread, here's that slip version for completeness: http://www.jusme.org/manifold_design3.gif
Sheesh, I sure am having a hard time getting this thing right based on your description. I think I finally have it this time. http://www.jusme.org/manifold_design2_rev2.gif You're right about the terminology for the word "Nipple". I briefly saw somewhere that it was a short length of pipe and I missed the part about it usually being threaded. So I guess I was misusing the word in my design, which is good to know. I'm curious why you don't just use a male x male valve straight into the slip x fem...
It also occurred to me that I could still use the standard Female x Female valve (this seems to be the default for Rain Bird at least) and instead of a 1" Ell ST (fipt) I could use a 1" Street Ell (mipt). Any thoughts? Pros/Cons for each approach?
HDK, I've attached a new revision to my drawing based on your comments. Do I now have it correct? http://www.jusme.org/manifold_design2_rev1.gif I modified the design based on my specific needs. For each of my laterals, I need 1 1/4" CL200 pipe based on my system design. The mainline pipe is 1". Obviously smaller fittings are cheaper, so my manifold design shows 1" fittings used throughout, and then a 1"x1 1/4" bushing right before the lateral pipe to get to the right size. Does this look about ...
Anyone have any comments on these two manifold designs? Are there any pro's/con's to the first one? I don't really see what threads buy you in a manifold anyway, it just seems like you'll have to cut pipe to replace a valve no matter what.
Here's HooKooDooKu's manifold design illustrated (I hope it's right). Use your imagination with the 3D perspective, it's hard to simulate in Visio. Basically that mainline pipe is going into and coming out of the page (Z-axis). The mainline then tees vertically to one valve with an upside-down U design. The rest of the valves would be similar, each having an upside-down U shape. Correct HooKooDooKu? http://www.jusme.org/manifold_design2.gif
Alright let's start with a visual diagram, and maybe with your help I can tweak it accordingly. Is this like what you had in mind mrfixit? Note that everything is not to scale, but you get the idea. I completely understand what you're trying to illustrate HooKooDooKu because I saw you mention the upside-down U with unions in another post and made a quick little sketch of it to visualize on my notepad which I happen to have right next to me. It seems like a good idea too. Here's my current rough ...
