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Quoted from "mrfixit" Sometimes sprinklers do appear to be on PCP. Click on this link. http://www.hunterindustries.com/support/installation_adjustment/rotors/pgpinstruct.html Just some of the insatllers...LOL he means PGP
you should be able to the parts you need. Try to inspect the valve maybe with a flashlight to see who makes them and a model number. I am guessing you found your leak out front. Was it the valve? Your on the right track.
I completely agree. Quoted from "hi.todd" We really need more information to help with this question. How many gallons per minute are you going to design each zone to operate at. 8, 12, 18, 25,G.P.M. What you need to answer this questions is how big of an area are you going to irrigate? What is your water source? How far are you going to irrigate from the water source. This will help Determine how big your mainline will be.
I like your website. Did you pay someone to design it? My question would be whats driving customers to the site?
If you want rainbird go with the 5000+ I like the Hunter pgp and Weathermatic T3 rotors too
Sounds like you do have a problem. I would guess this is an older system that your not familiar with. Do you know where all of the valves are in the yard? this soesnt sound like a stuck valve issue but an electircal issue. If this system is very new to you look at the wires coming into the controller. If look at numer 5 and 3 and make sure they only have 1 wire coming into them on the controller. If thats ok then I would remove #3 from the controller and manually run zone 5. I would do the oppsi...
What is your water supply? You wouldnt need backflow if its a pond or a stream. If its a well or city water then yes youll need backflow. I have to commend you on your awesome layout and thought you put into your design. It looks very professional
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" Officially complaining to the site owner - please persuade the fine folks posting question that there is real value in disclosing their location before they even post a single word, so that it shows up left of their post, under their user name. Forwarding your post. Pete
I agree. Unplug and remove the battery and reprogram in the spring. I will be shutting my system down soon and will restart in may.
Quoted from "Lowvolumejeff" Sorry, but I forgo to mention that water hammer is bad. It will literally knock your system apart if bad enough, and most probably lead to a prmature failure of one or more parts. Sorry Agreed. you must fix the problem. Just imagine it happens while your away for a weekend and breaks a pipe in your basement. Water running for 48hrs in basement= BAD
I never tape when making the connection to the sprinkler head. I dont care if I get a small drip at the base of the head. Everywhere else yes.
Good thoughts mr fixit. I agree take a systematic approch. I would first rule out electrical problems controller and wiring before you replace any valves. then i would replace one solenoid and then one valve till I found the problem
My suggestion is replace the main line if you have hammer when valves close or add an additional mainline. either choice will slow the water moving through the pipes and fix the problem. Adding the 6" pipe may work though.
Go to home depot and buy the reducing fittings in pvc.
You should not check you pressure using a hose. Why? because your not using a hose in you sprinkler system. here is my advise and I work only with well water. Didnt I read that your pump can produce 14 gpm? If so then your fine. tap into the mainline and get the pipe out side of the house use a 1" febco PVB and 1" every where. Design your system with 5 heads per zone. Use the # 2 nozzles or maybe # 3 test one zone first before you do the rest of the heads. While running that zone watch your pres...
are you just using a relay that one would use for a circulating pump on a boiler system?
How many gpm are you running at 50 psi at the pump? or another way to get the info I need to help is tell me what a typical zone you currently have set up is like. For ex 5 pgp rotors and #3 nozzles. Also how many spray heads are you wanting to run? the reason i ask is you may be just fine by adding a zone of sprays. actually now that I re read your original post hear is what you need to do. Dont worry about "runs best at 50 psi" _ I am not sure what you mean by that. If your running a pump figu...
please tell me how you do it.
I need a pump realy to start my pump(lake source) does anyone have a recommendation other than this? http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/PSR-22-Pump-Start-Relay-p/psr-22.htm
