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Have you tried the wilkins 375 yet? It seems interesting...I like that you can remove the guts for the winter. If so...thoughts?
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" No problem installing an RPZ indoors, that is, if it is installed in a room with a floor drain capable of handling the entire flow of the sprinkler system. Lacking that, they go outdoors. Then outdoors it is. Thanks.
Any reason not to just put the 009 inside?
I was actually looking at the Watts 009 series. So the water drains out of it automatically? Can I install it inside, or does twater leak out of it under normal (or backflow) operation? Can a blowout valve be installed after the 009? Would the air leak out as it tries to go backwards through the RPZ, preventing pressure from hitting the sprinkler heads? I'd love to be able to do the blowouts myself...everything i read says you need a huge volume (but low pressure) compressor to get all the water...
What make/model RPZ would you guys recommend? Thoughts on Lead Free? Thanks.
Do you install strainers with your systems?
Thanks again Mick and wet_boots for all your advice on this.
The guy at my town also told me that if i install a backflow preventer (which I have to) then i HAVE to install an expansion tank on my water heater. But if I install the backflow AFTER tee-ing off to my sprinkler system, then I shouldn't need it, as the thermal expansion of my hot water could still go back to the meter. These are reasons why permits and inspections (in my town) seem to be a waste of time. I remodeled my bathroom recently, with a permit and inspections. The guy came in, looked a...
So - I can do an RPZ OR a PRV at my house. Maybe I'll decide that after I install my 1" line and see what my pressure/flow is like. I should be able to handle the pressure loss from either, though.
A little lost with that comment. I was under the impression that you needed a big-time 50+CFM compressor to blow out a sprinkler system? I'm not quite sure what you mean by your blowout method... Thanks for all your advice, by the way. I am glad I'm getting this stuff answered before I start digging.
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" If no one is going to be testing the devices, a DCVA is the last thing you want to have. They can and will stick open. Especially the older Febco 805Y, the most popular model in the Long Island area. If you had one of those, I would replace it without hesitation. Whether an RPZ can substitute, is a matter of accepting its above-ground installation, and also accepting the additional pressure loss it creates. I talked to my dad about his DCVA (A Watts 007). He will have it...
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" And trust me, a PVB is an upgrade from the DCVA, especially in a state that is lax about requiring annual device testing. You can always sell the old DCVA on eBay. What about for my parents? Their house is in the middle of a hill....I guess an RPZ would be the way to go there. My house is on a flat piece or property. I guess I could loop up a foot or two, install a PVB, then back down into the valve box. This would lead to my PVB being outside, which i guess is good, sin...
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" Your link doesn't work on this website. Besides, when you want to cite a written requirement, you include chapter and verse, and not the entire volume. For all we know, this is yet another case of the code for fire sprinkler systems, which does require a DCVA, being read as a requirement for lawn sprinklers. Not sure why the link didn't work. Is there any way I can test a backflow preventer myself? i see and have read the instructions on the watts website for their test ...
My apologies for not including my location initially. I post on enough DIY boards to know how important that is. My town requires a DCVA - I saw it in the town code with my own eyes: http://www.ecode360.com/?custId=GU1600 "Nonhazardous substance. At the service connection to any premises a substance that would be objectionable is handled so as to constitute a cross-connection, the Town water supply shall be protected by an approved double check valve assembly." This, of course, assumes that a la...
Their DCVA is actually located outside, which annoyed me at the time of installation by the plumber (I did all the work downstream of the DCVA). I knew it could be installed inside, i think the plumber may have thought it was an RPZ so he put it outside for drainage. Maybe it's just as well, if we switch to an RPZ and water drains out of it, no problem. How does an RPZ work? Do they leak water when backflow happens? Any reason not to leave the DCVA in also (along with an RPZ), since we already h...
I am concerned more about safety than meeting code requirements (usually they are one and the same). My town requires DCVA - and I would use something else (RPZ, PRV, whatever) if it means more safety, even if it is "against" code (despite being above and beyond code in reality). My parents' town has no specific code requirement on type of backflow preventer. I installed a DCVA because I thought it was the most effective. Since their house is on a hill (the back is uphill from the house, the fro...
I am located in Albany, NY. My parents (installed their system last year with a DCVA) live in Stony Point, NY.
The PVB has to be above the highest sprinkler head, right? Problem is I already purchased the DCVA (a year ago, planned to do this last summer). I don't think I can return it.
Yup - double-check valve assemblies are approved in my town - just verified that last week from the town.
I have 3/4" coming into the meter. I tested pressure on my spigot outside and I have 75-80psi, but that is on half inch. I plant to use 1" for the sprinkler system, how much pressure loss will I get? Currently it immediately drops down to 1/2" just after the meter. This is how I plan to tap into the system for my sprinkler system. Does it look ok? Any concerns? [attach]33[/attach]
