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Anybody have ideas for using up 10' or shorter pieces of poly pipe?
is there a run time for zone #3? It will not come on with the auto run feature if there is no run time.
Cleaning the pump or suction filter is probably the likely culprit. Most pumps are simple to clean out, check your manual or go online for one. One other possible culprit could be a broken or stuck foot valve.
We have no problem when using the pinch clamps for mainline or lateral lines up to 1.25" pipe. If we use 1.5" or 2" pipe we use a T-Bolt clamp because of the thickness of the wall of the pipe.
you will want to find the valve that operates that zone and correct the problem at that point. If you were to cap off those lines, there would be no way to winterize that zone, and you would have multiple broken pipes to deal with (assuming that your winters get below freezing) which I assume since you are just turning on your water.
Hookup downline from your backflow preventer, shut off the ball valves on the backflow preventer, and then blow out your sprinkler system. When you have completed this, open both ball valves 1/2 way, and open both test cocks on the backflow to allow the backflow to drain.
the difference in size will not effect the working of the valve. I would suggest the Rain Bird DV series valve (the most trouble free valve we have installed in the last 18 years).
If this system is on a well. You might want to check the GPM and see if it has dropped. We are facing this all the time because of dry conditions and low water tables. If this is the case, you can hope that smaller nozzles will solve the problem, or else its a new pump or redisign of the system.
Just make sure that the swing (funny) pipe completely covers all of the barbs.
If you are getting voltage at the master valve (24 - 26 volts), then its time to replace the solenoid of the master valve. If you aren't getting voltage at the master valve, then the problem is in the wiring connections or wire (cut, chewed up) between the valve and the controller.
Nelson valves are very suspect to dirt under the solenoid. Try taking the solenoid off and rinsing out any grains of dirt/sand that are inside, and hand tightening the solenoid back on.
Go with the 4 in the corners as long as you can use as least a size 6 nozzle (2.7 gpm) with your water supply.
Assuming that you are using clean water (city water or filtered well water) most any of the name brand valves will work. If your source is unfiltered or irrigation water you may want to consider a dirty water valve such as the Rain Bird PESB.
I suggest that you call a professional to come and help with the design and then install it. They will be able to test your water flow, water pressure, and then make suggestions to the # of heads and zones needed, as well as the proper head placement.
The ESP-LX series will allow you to run the valves and pump separate or together by installing the pump as a station on Program D. Program D will run on its own, or at any other time (simultaneously) with any of the other programs (however you program it). We have used this method to do similar things.
