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Search results 1-20 of 77.
Quoted from "HooKooDooKu" Quoted from "Fireguy97" Quoted from "HooKooDooKu" But from a practical standpoint, the general public equates the two devices and the two terms. So pointing out the wrong use of the word "dual" verses "double" is meaningless unless you EMPHASIZE the TEST COCKS (which I ALWAYS DO when posting here about back flow prevention). So, what you are saying is that even when you describe two different types of backflow assemblies/devices, you figure that the "general public" se...
Quoted from "HooKooDooKu" All it takes is a PVC male and copper female and make place these joints under ground. You could even build "feet" into the copper pipe to support the backflow device without the risk of it getting knocked over and damaging the underground plumbing. Plumbing code stipulates that every device or assembly be supported with proper supports. This doesn't mean supported by the pipe itself. A 1" RPZ is a heavy assembly. Pipe 'feet' is a hack install, and a major problem wait...
Quoted from "HooKooDooKu" The only industry standard backflow preventer you can install in a basement is a Duel Check Backflow assymbly (not to be confused with a simple double check valve, a DC Assy has the test cocks to "prove" each part of the device is working correctly). However, a DCA is considered the lowest level of protection, and some localities do not allow a DCA as a backflow preventer to an irrigation system. Sorry HooKoDoku, but you are the one that is a little confused. A Duel Ch...
Quoted from "Lou2221" How much variation should there in coverage for a given zone? I had a new system installed for which I have accurately measured the coverage in each zone. In a few zones there is a difference of from over 2"/hr to less than 1/2"/hr (in a single zone, not between zones). Is this acceptable? To me it's not. Your wording/description is confusing me. Are you asking about the difference in coverage or application? Coverage is square footage, and application rate is how much wat...
If I want to be extra cautious with winterization can I use simple Shrader Valves in a TEE in each of the zones in the PVC pipe after the CP-100 valves? If so how much air pressure should be applied to make sure I do no damage to the system. The zone control valves and the Anti Siphon valve (ahead of the control valves) are all in my basement. The Shrader valves would be in the basement as well in the lines going out through the basement wall. It's not what I would recommend. I would go with a h...
Quoted from "dwinmac" It has a Watts Anti-Siphon Vacuum Breaker No. 288A. Is there any way to verify that the device is indeed preventing backflow into the house plumbing? This is one of your classic good news - bad news situations. The good news is that this type of valve is not a testable device, so you won't have to pay to get it tested. The bad news is that this valve is illegal connected to an irrigation system. This type of backflow device is only acceptable in a plumbing situation that d...
Quoted from "Bumbleball" I guess my questions are....where can I find a manual or some kind of instructions on how to work the controller and where might I find something to go on top of the fixture that seems to missing one (I have looked at Lowe's, they had nothing that would fit, Walmart at least had something that might fit into the tube, but it didn't look like what may have been there previously) ? www.weathermatic.com/index.cfm?page=Downloads I don't know what 'fixtures' you might have, ...
Quoted from "sanctified" Can i step up from a 1" line to a 1 1/4" line without any major issues? Yes, No problem My psi runs between 90 and 110 per the water district. Do you have a pressure reducing valve (PRV) in your home? If you do, your working pressure is probably 70-75 PSI Normally the water district gives you the pressure that your SHOULD be getting as the water enters your property line. If this is the pressure that you gave your designer, you might want to check the pressure at a hose...
Quoted from "heathuff" When you ask what happens when I turn the valves on manually from the "valve box"...are you referring to the controller box where I program days of the week and zones? No, the controller (clock) is an electrical timer that you can program so that the valves come on for certain lenghts of time on specific days. If you have anti-siphon valves, they will be above ground. Other types of irrigation valves are probably in the ground, hopefuly in a valve box for protection. Wire...
Tell him to get pictures! It should be a riot! Little gushers all over his yard! - and he'll never really know if he ever got them all. Mick
Quoted from "heathuff" I have no idea where it gets the water from...could the water be dried out or something? Has anyone worked on any plumbing at your home recently? A valve could have been accidentally shut off. You will have to trace the water line back to origin and check to see if your valves are open. Does your irrigation system run from a well or municipal water? What happens when you turn your valves on manually from the valve box? Some people have irrigation system on wells and munic...
Quoted from "mrfixit" Do yourself a favor and never buy a 2 1/2 inch Rainbird pop up. They're cheap toys. What you want is the 1800 series Rainbird. Spend the extra dollar. The nozzle from your 2 1/2 inch will fit the 1800. www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Rain-Bird-1800-Series-Sprinkler-Spray-p/1804.htm Not sure if you've noticed, but the OP isn't asking if he should purchase 2 1/2" heads. He already has them. Mick
When Zone 1 is running (and only zone 1) remove the zone 1 wire at the clock. See what happens. When zone 2 comes on (and zone 1 is still running) remove the zone 1 wire, see what happens. Do you have a leak at the heads when the system is off? Have you done any work on the zone 1 valve recently? I think that you might have a bad diaphragm, or a cracked valve housing. Shut your water off and open up your valve and see if you have any debris inside. Flush out your valve, and clean your diaphragm....
Quoted from "desmo907" I'll get the FE765-075 - Febco® 3/4 inch PVB Assembly to replace it. It looks easy to replace. I am well above the 12 ".... and there doesn't seem to be any local rules (and think some of my neighbors have the same device). It does appear the guy who installed this system years ago didn't do well.. He had too many zones, and buried the valves without a box I understand that your municiplity/water provider doesn't have any local rules, but you should know (what you do with...
I don't think that you have a problem with your Febco 825Y, I think that you have a pressure/surge problem with your water. You might want to add a soft seated check valve just before your RP. It sounds like you are getting big pressure fluctuations, causing the RP to vent slightly. Mick
Steve, have you tried to pull the new valves apart and look inside? There might be sand or some other debris inside causing the diaphragm not to seal properly. You might just need a filter. A proper backflow prevention assembly is always recommended, but it won't do anything for a leakage problem. Mick
I would use a swing joint. www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Hunter-Swing-Joints-s/6837.htm Mick
When I install a system, I don't install parts from only one manufacturer. I design a system to be installed for a client that meet the watering needs for that client. That might mean a system being made up of; Rainbird 5000 series rotators, Toro valves, Hunter pop-ups and MP Rotators as a spray head, a Nelson/Signature controller, and shrubblers for the drip/micro zone(s). What it boils down to is that different contractors like different product for different reasons. You haven't told us your ...
Was there any work done on your lawn this month? Can you manually turn the zone on from the clock? Can you manually turn the zone on from the valve? Do you have a manifold assembly with multiple valves in the valve box, or is each zone valve in it's own seperate valve box? Turn zone one on from the clock (controller) for at least ten minutes. Go to the valve box and remove the wire nuts from one of the wires going to the solinoid for zone one. remove the wire connection. Touch the wires back tog...
Quoted from "newbieLawnGuy" Do I use risers or do I replace the heads with 4" ones? What are the pros and cons of each approach or is one of those appraches just plain dumb? How high are you cutting the grass? If it's 2 1/2" to 3" then you will need to replace the heads with a 4" head. If the grass is being cut at less than 2", then your heads will work. I've installed thousands of heads, and only one was a 2 1/2" head, and that one was because there was concrete under it, and I couldn't get a ...
