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If your pump isn't controlled by a pressure switch, it should have pressure relief valve installed to prevent deadheading the pump. If not, install one. As for spigots on pumps, not recommended. You're better off tying the spigot into the mainline and operating a zone when you want to wash the car. Or install a tank and pressure switch.
Once the Vision controller starts acting up, there's not much you can do but replace it.
I've seen many failed attempts by homeowners who used duct tape, electrical tape, or the likes. Typically it results in having to cut out the unwanted section and replacing with blank tubing (drip line that doesn't have emitters). Can't say I've seen epoxy over the emitters.
I called tech support the other day and they responded that they ran a test and were successful in getting two decoders to operate using the same address. They also said it was a lab experiment and they cannot guarantee success in the field. They are now in the process of running a test to see if using the DUO product would allow operation of 4 decoders.
Sounds like you're gonna need the 80psi static. Install the system as is and worry about reducing pressure later, if need be.
Well, I spent the day examining a site I have a maintenance contract with. It's a community college here in the metro. For the last couple years, they have been busy with new construction expanding the buildings. Needless to say, 1 of the 4 systems was hacked up pretty good. The construction is now complete and the contractor the general used for the system repair is also complete. WOW!!! What a hack job! He turned a 12 zone system into 29 zones, and still didn't cover everything. I anticipate h...
Check your wiring. Using a multi meter will help you determine if you have issues. I would say, if the programming is correct and you cannot get them to come on with the controller, odds are good you have a warranty claim. There are times when homeowners play with a controller and mess up the programming, in which case warranty doesn't apply. But it does sound wiring, controller, or programming related.
Then you're doing something wrong or have the entirely wrong selonoid. The replacement would be an Irritrol 216B. Which would use the exact same selonoid. Are you removing the o-ring? The new selonoid has an o-ring built in, so make sure you aren't doubling up on o-rings. Did you purchase the selonoid only, or did you pull it off of a valve?
Digging up the entire sprinkler.
I would say if your water is off and it kept running, chances are likely its not your sprinkler.
Whenever there is a concern regarding the mainline or valves, a pressure test should be conducted. Simply watching a water meter for movement isn't exactly accurate. It's possible you have weeping valves, which would show itself as pooling water around the sprinkler heads 24/7. Of course, one of our townhome complexes got a bill for "Very High Water Usage" where they claimed the system used 3 million gallons in one month. A pressure test of the mainline concluded that was impossible, and a new ,...
Disconnect the zone 8 wire from its terminal in the controller and then test again. If it blows the fuse with the wire disconnected at the controller then you know its the controller. If it only pops the fuse with the wire connected, then you're looking at a bad wire or selonoid.
Do NOT use PVC for any of your sprinkler system. Midwest climates wreak havoc on PVC pipe. And the 3/4" mainline is a joke. Use 1 1/4" mainline and laterals (Poly of course) and neck down to 1" for zone lines.
You probably have multiple start times programmed.
Keep even spacing of drip lines Try to avoid end feeding a section of line. Strive to feed from the center point of a section of drip line so as to "balance" the flow of water. Run time will vary depending on soil compsition and age of plants.
The only time the program switch matters is for programming and MANUAL watering, in which you would need to select a program to water. Like Boots stated, position of program switch is irrelevent for AUTOMATIC watering.
It is possible. Set up program A to water zones 1-5 on your chosen days. Set up program B to water zones 6-10 on the other days. Make sure not to overlap watering times so that program B is trying to water while program A is.
Usually, depending on the size of leak, you can see water boiling if the box has some water in it. You have to watch closely for it, but the small boils of water can help pinpoint where the actual leak is coming from.
Yes, You have a broken common between zone 5 valve and zone 6 valve. Chances are your wiring feeding zones 6-8 have what we call a ground fault, contributing to the stray voltage. Find and repair the bad wiring, and your problems should disappear.
Booster pumps after the fact are never a good sign. Waste and stop valve replacement is pretty common. Sounds hairy to me.
