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The equipment was already built from my home automation stuff. The software was all I needed to write. I'm not developer by trade so that wasn't a big deal.
Quoted from "scercpio" Wouldn't it be cheaper just to buy an Irrigation Caddy? In my case, no. I already had the Ethernet controller and relay board that I use for other home automation projects. Net cost was just my time to write the scheduling software. The Ethernet controller is $79 and the relay board cost about $30 for components if I remember correctly.
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" Now you know why the pro gets the big money. Connect on the upstream side. The Wilkins is a special animal, and not typical. By the way, you are letting yourself in for doing all maintenance on the system, as people who do their own winterizing are a bottom priority to the pros when it comes to in-season repairs. I won't let them go near it again. This being a "Pro" install I now have to dig out the valve box and seal the wires next spring.
My mother had a sprinkler system installed about 5 years ago and always had it blown out by the company that installed it. This year she asked if I could do it for her instead of paying the $65 they charge. I won't even get into the buried in dirt zone valves and non-sealed wire nuts... I hooked my compressor up to the test port on the outlet side of the backflow preventer and as soon as I turned on the air it began leaking out of the top of the Watts 800M4FR. My 2 year old Wilkins doesn't do th...
This might be right up your alley and fairly affordable. http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Laser-Tripwire/ Instead of turning the LED on and off you can have it turn a relay on and off that controls the 24VAC to the solenoid.
I just used a pipe from Home Depot and whacked it underneath the sidewalk with a hammer. Worked great, didn't make a mess, and didn't wash the sand out from underneath the sidewalk which can lead to cracks in the concrete later.
In my application I found that the MP2000 don't go as far as advertised. At 45psi I should be getting at least 19ft but am only managing about 17. Whereas, the MP 3000's seem to be dead on.
Even the 1" PVB's are downright cheap if you shop around and they are allowable in your town. I paid $55.24 shipped for a 1" Wilkins backflow when I caught it on sale.
EDIT: I also bought 90% of my parts from SW. The poly pipe was just too bulky to ship and still be cost effective. Ok, so I finally remembered to grab a cell phone picture. The small module at the top left is actually a 16 channel Ethernet controller. It is tied into my home network and can be controlled by a built in web interface or by SNMP. It's an awesome little piece of kit and only costs about $70. It then ties into a 16 channel relay board toward the bottom of the pic. The relay board use...
I'll try to snap a pic tonight if I remember.
A lot more complex looking than mine. I'm using an off the shelf 16 channel Ethernet controller that connects to a home brew 16 channel PCB relay board. The Ethernet controller can be controlled through a web interface or SNMP. I have a C# application that handles scheduling, calculates water usage, controls zones, etc.
Very ingenious, I must remember this trick as I am sure it will happen to me eventually.
I hand dug anywhere I was within 2ft of a marked utility line for liability purposes. CATV was my biggest concern. I watched them install my neighbor's CATV and they only went as deep as a spade shovel would penetrate. So basically, his CATV is under his sod. In the future it will probably rise to the surface.
I don't see why not as long as you can match the precip rate of the rotors. All of the MP rotators are designed to be very close in precip rates so you can mix and match them. Not sure of the other brands but I love the MP rotators I have.
I only had 51psi static and 7.5gpm of flow so it can be done. I used 1 inch for the main line and most of the laterals and kept the flow of each zone near or under the 8gpm mark. I have a feeling I went a little bigger than I needed to. You will need a backflow preventer. Each town varies but in my town I was told I needed a plumbing permit and an electrical permit. I guess my town likes to inspect low voltage wiring as well. You should be able to find plenty of information on backflow preventer...
Quoted from "njitgrad" Let me clarify...the tent is not a permanent fixture...i plan to take it down after every social event. Therefore I will be driving the anchor pins down with a hammer and removing them when the event is over. The question I still have is how will I know if I punctured a line though? Put the spikes in the ground, remove spikes, turn on zones, see if water comes out of the holes.
Definitely. The 3/4" will provide more than enough flow for a single MP1000. Just use a 1" to 3/4" reducing barb and you're all set.
Propane torch with the click ignitor. I would evenly heat 2 or 3 ends at a fitting, slip them on, let them cool, and then crimp the clamps. They don't need much heat, maybe only a few seconds. If you overheat you can weaken the plastic too much and it will kink or twist. On a hot day in the sun you don't even need a torch. Funny pipe I didn't heat at all.
Do you have an irrigation supply company that will sell direct to the public? I have one about 40 minutes from me. I bought all my poly there as it was much cheaper due to shipping. I don't think I bought anything at Lowes or Home Depot. Bought a lot from SW when they had a nice sale going on. Got some great discounts.
Stupid question probably, but how does the krick-it work? Does it make the solenoid pulse on and off?
