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I have also used the Hunter SVC on a Rainbird valve but used a 9 volt soleniod, this does open up options. As stated earlier, if you can run the wire a 4 zone timer might be the best way to go but for a single station no wires, Hunter SVC. Joe S.
I agree with not removing anything if you don't have too but sometimes when screwing down a nozzle water sprays out the screw. Turning down screws option 1 Capping option 2. Joe S.
I do agree with telescoping and I think they did that. My main question is how much will I gain by increasing the backflow up too 1 1/4" from 1"? The pipe is 1 1/4" coming out the 1" backflow but I need all the pressure I can get. Thanks.
The top of the rotor helps you adjust the spray (fanning out or stream) and rotation (all the way to full circle). By turning the screw clockwise the inset screw will imped the spray and fan out the spray as well as reduce your flow. This might be your easiest and quickest method in reducing water to certain area that 4 rotors are hitting. Good luck Joe S.
Thanks for the respone. My problem is that the valves and last sprays are a great distance apart. The line coming out is 1 1/4 and the valves are 1" but the valve is 85' from the back flow and the zone is over 150 to last spray which does not have enough to push it up. The line is in very , very heavy roots so checking and maybe down sizing pipe is not very cost and time effective. That is why I was thinking if I just added more pressure even a little by upsizing to a 1 1/4" backflow. Any helpfu...
Yes I did. A 5 psi drain in the lowest end of every zone. I would bury the drain plugs very low and surround them in rock. They do work but, I agree nothing beats haveing the system blown out. Explain every option to the customer and let them decide. The majority of people always chose both, drain and purging but yes I do believe a system with drains put in properly can be very productive. Joe S.
Bidding is and always will be difficult due to people who bid very low and do put in the cheapest parts. I explained to the customer that cheap is not the way to go, left me card and actually have left a good part for them to compare (one PGP rotor can do alot). Their reputation WILL catch up with them. Your will also help you, no advertisement will ever compete with word of mouth. Get a list of referals, reward any referal that did help but also go back and correct the one's that were not so ki...
Excatly right, no more than 45 psi, and we did blow through the backflows, Colorado winters. Watch the closest head to you, watch all the water come out and go to the next zone. Good luck. Joe S.
I agree with RVLI about Hunter and Rainbird being the best, I would also like to suggest to ask to see some sort of plan (picture) on how your system will be put in and be sure to allow for growth , if you think you might, in purchasing you timer. Remember it to have each spray/rotor to reach the next spray/rotor, this is called head-tohead coverage, some installer might not do this. Good luck. Joe S.
Besure to blowout your entire system and to winterize your backflow by removing it's insides and to turn all peacocks at a 45 deree angle to allow any water to escape or you will be buying a new backflow (lived in Colorado Springs, CO) Joe S.
Why are you turning the valve down? To reduce overall pressure or to save water? Joe S.
I think a febco or wilkens. A 600-1 model
You could also remove the entire nozzle(s) and the other part (PA that screw on top of the riser, the thread part, a threaded cap, probably a 1/2". This will also add additional pressure to other head(s) that might need it. Going with a threaded cap is good encase you want to put back the nozzle(s) if you add plant material later.
Another thing is to consider the controller that can be updated with modules (usually addition of 2 at a time) for home growth. These also are best for the price. If you buy a 4 zone timer and later want to add another zone you are buying a new timer. Just a thought.
I have a 1" on a 1 1/4 feed and output. The old tech probably only knew about a 1 ". I want to know the differeance pressures for a 1 1/4" backflow which I am sure is the best. I tried to find an on site but could not.[?] Thanks
Where can I find the pressure differances in the sizes of backflows. I came across a 1" backflow on a supply and feed line of 1 1/4 " and want to justify the change of a new backflow, they are not cheap.