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FYI they dont make the RMX-1 remote control anymore its now the LIMR remote, that port is solely for that use as well.
Youd be better off looking that up on WATTS 's website than asking someone on here. Plus ive never heard of a M4 version I regularly see the M1 M2 QT ETC versions
http://www.thesource-online.com/pdf/rainbird.pdf Check page 49
If your main controller is unplugged, you have a Battery Operated Controller somewhere (or another controller) tied into selected zones, my next bet too. Im interested to know what your service company finds when they come out, let us know.
Well, if the water has been shut off to the system, meaning you have physically shut down the water source to the system and the pipes have no pressure on them, (Example; water meter shut off or backflow has been drained, power to a Well shut off if you're on a well. ETC, you more than likely dont have a leak. If the water is still turned on to the system you may have a leak at a joint or a threaded connection at or near the valve. If your water is shut off and continuing to be present in the bo...
This is not a control box issue. (Controller) This sounds like a diaphragm or solenoid not closing properly. (Mechanical Issue) The valve will have to be located in the yard, and taken apart, cleaned or parts replaced. And if it comes down to replacing parts, you need to go ahead and replace the entire top end. (Solenoid, Bonnet, Diaphragm, & Seat.
Mini Clik is tried and true. Plus the cap is removable serviceable and adjustable.
You always need to use a PRS (pressure regulating model) spray body for the MP series nozzles. Hunter makes a body specifically for the MP nozzles regulating the pressure at 40psi MPR40 Look for the grey cap on top.
Well if they werent turned on manually by hand, then the valves are somehow stuck open, either by debris or mechanical failure. (diaphragm hung open) You will have to locate the valves and take them apart and more than likely replace the diaphragm and might as well replace the whole top end of the valve. (Solenoid, diaphragm & bonnett, screws, wire splices etc.) If you dont have any experience locating valves you could be in for a good bit of time wasted.
Pretty much what everyone else is saying. Controller will run both valves electrically, but water pressure might be an issue. You probably have a cut wire somewhere in your yard, or a bad wire splice. You will need a Tempo (progressive 501) wire tracer and a 2003 Pulsar ground fault finder. If i had no experience with these tools, I would pay someone to come find the break.
I have a schonstedt GA-52 and i can tell you it will not likely pick up valves. Ive tried. You need to go rent from your local irrigation supply house a valve locator. Either the Armada Pro700 or the Tempo 521, Either of these two will quickly help you locate the valve.
Koster Irrigation, Inc. Located In Wilson, NC Since 1994 Serving the Eastern NC Including the Triangle Area. www.KosterIrrigation.com Please email us and we'll let you know if we do not service your area. I have a good network of other reliable irrigation contractors in the state, if I cant help I will find someone who can. -Licensed Backflow Device Tester -Licensed Irrigation Contractor #C-478 -Member Carolinas Irrigation Asso. -References Gladly Given
Could your valves have been activated manually. Meaning turned on by hand at the valve? Sounds like this is whats going on.
We do the same thing sometimes to mark valve boxes with scrap pipes so the landscapers dont till up our buried equipment. As far as the risers not being plumb, thats a simple fix with a little straightening and compaction of the dirt around the pipe.
Everyone is entitlied to their opinion of course so i'll voice mine. Ive been in business for about 17 years doing irrigation only. In my 17 yr career ive never been taught or told to wrap teflon tape "Backwards' of the thread direction. I just did some online research to verify, and i cant find anywhere that says wrap in the opposite direction of the threads. Ive ALWAYS wrapped teflon (3/4" wide or larger) in the SAME direction as the threads. For plastic to plastic, usually 2 to 3 complete wra...
Wow, no replies. Your website looks great. Layed out nicely and i like the pictures . The testimonial section is a good plus.
You should also look at www.lawnsite.com the sprinkler forum, theres hundreds of users, ive been a member there for years.
Ive never heard of them, although it could be a good product.
One controller. Just for the purpose of not having to "keep track" of two different clocks watering schedules and not allowing overlap is reason enough.
For simplicity purposes I would stick with the Rainbird line. If this is a residential job, You should go with the Rainbird ESPM Indoor, with the appropriate amount of expansion modules. The screen is larger than the proC, and for most people, the RB easier to use.
