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Double check that you have the controller set up correctly. Check the wires coming out of the controller with the meter
Sounds like you have a wiring problem between zones 2 and 3. Check the connections in zone 2 and 3 valve boxes.
Do zones 1 and 2 come on automatically or only when you go to the valve and turn them on manually?
Where are you located. What kind of valves do you have? First check the controller's programming. Any digging in the yard? May have to check valve wiring, first check common wire. Are zones 1 and 2 in a separate valve box?
I use mp3000s and I see a big difference when I turn the screw. Maybe since the mp 1000 have a small radius to begin with there is a smaller difference.
Remember that you will have more radius going downhill and less radius going uphill. No matter sprays or rotors. How did replacing those sprays with MP1000 affect the water usage? If your max GPM available s 8 for example, your new configuration shouldn't be over 8. Adding elbows, etc I guess would affect pressure. Check above first.
Did you do any lawn work that would have disturbed the wiring to the valves? If two wires are now touching they will both open. Maybe wires in the valve box are touching Do you have a master valve? Maybe one valve is stuck in the open position. If so take it apart and clean the insides.
I get all my stuff from Lowe's. Cheap enough and no hassle returns. Always buy more than you need and return what is unused.
Move it is one option. Another one is replacing with a 12 inch pop up. Or install a riser which can elevate it as high as you want. Each option is not difficult.
Never thought of that. That will be much better and is what I will do - in March. Thank you very much.
I think a bad idea as they will most definitely be run over by cars and SUVs. Alternatively what can I do but place them 10 feet away with 360s and have some water waste on the driveway?
If the Toros work for you then stay with them. Hunter and Rainbird are the brands most liked here. I have Hunter and Toro in my systems. Central irr will give you better advice.
Could be that the valve has failed. Where do you live?
Replace the ones that leak only if you want. As long as it's not a valve problem. I have rotors that drain when off. No check valve available in that model, so I live with it. If you water is very very expensive and you lose allot, then change.
Normally you want copper coming from the house to the PVB. Then pvc to the valves. I guess you don't have freezing problems so the install will be permanent. No unions needed. You can replace some parts of the PVB if they fail. Leave some room to replace the PVB if it ever gets beyond repair. I think they only sell one type of copper fittings.
You should make your own manifold. Easy to cut, clean and cement pvc. You have 4 valves and a drip valve, total five. You may need more valves as you have 42 heads planned. Many different ways to set this up. Wet Boots will know best. If it were me I would have the 4 valves in one box. As for the drip valve, maybe install it near the beds where it is needed. You will need to run the pvc to this area and if it's a long run it's harder to do. Or first install manifold with 4 valves in one box, the...
I guess you are planning now for a Spring install? Sometimes it's hard to insert barbed filling into the poly especially in cool weather. I carefully used a propane torch to heat the poly. Got a valve that has a trigger switch, very very useful. BUT if you heat too much you distort the poly and it will leak - I had one instance and the fix is not fun or easy, so a few seconds of heat only.
You mentioned buying manifolds? That's no fun, make your own.
Go to the poly section in Lowes or Home Depot. They will have the adapters you need. Yes one adapter for each SJ. Always buy extra parts when you go to Lowes/HD. When project is done return the extras.
