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I see this problem all the time. like wetboots said- use a ball valve
How does it eliminate trenching when they say you have to use a spade to make a slice in the ground to put the pipe in? Grap your shovel and give it a try- you'll have to get down a solid 6". How is that not trenching? You may as well bury your garden hose and hose end sprinkler because thats all this system is.
The problem with heads on only one side is poor coverage. You'll have to overspray and overwater the area just to get it covered.
I like to grap an 8 pound sledge hammer when trying to adjust super 700 heads. The hammer sort of damages the head, but remarkably they spray better.
try the undercut nozzles from rainbird which offer an additional orrifice to water the area close to the head
what is the size of your service line to your house? Is it copper? or another type material? what is the size of the water meter?
hardly any 2 or more contractors think alike when it comes to sprinkler head layouts. It may be worth your while to have a design drawn up with bids placed on this design. No one does this for resi installs, but it may be worth it to you. Or- look at several of each of your contractors last jobs and pick what seems best to you along with asking and talking with references. No one does this either but it may be worth it to you.
So you would have paid $198 for a service call plus $99 for 1 hours labor plus the parts cost to have 2 heads fixed? I need to move where you live!
you need a repair coupling called a "slip-fix" -or- if the tee is still good and the riser just broke off inside the tee, you can use an extractor to remove the broken piece inside the tee and then thread on a new riser
sounds as thou valve not shutting off completely, hence the leaking water out the head. Repair or replace valve
It usually indicates a power failure.
Netafim would work really well for your narrow strip, but it must be zoned seperately.
Burley - you are right about mixing 1/4 rotor heads with full circles- the radius can be difficult to match and more than likely you'll exceed the recommended 25% reduction radius or distort the nozzle stream so bad that the stream will not cover properly. The way to prevent this is the have 1/4's and 1/2's on the same valve with full circle heads on a seperate valve/zone. The full circle heads would use the 1/2 nozzles and the zone would have to run for twice as long to achieve the same precip ...
Burley - you are right about mixing 1/4 rotor heads with full circles- the radius can be difficult to match and more than likely you'll exceed the recommended 25% reduction radius or distort the nozzle stream so bad that the stream will not cover properly. The way to prevent this is the have 1/4's and 1/2's on the same valve with full circle heads on a seperate valve/zone. The full circle heads would use the 1/2 nozzles and the zone would have to run for twice as long to achieve the same precip ...
I'd eliminate a strip thats 2' x 60'- just doesn't make sense to water such a narrow area. Can the sidewalk be enlarged that extra 2' width, or can you remove the grass and install decorative rock?
sounds as thou your manual turn on IS the valve.
Both PVB's and RP's are testable devices. Not sure why Fert-guru saya a PVB does not need to be tested. There should be hardly any difference in testing costs. If you live a city that requires testing, you will find that a PVB and RP will cost the same to test. It only takes 5 minutes to test the devices.
upsizing your pipe decreases the pressure loss, so your system will be more efficient.
