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Thanks for the advice. I'll add a mainline drain. Any thoughts on the Weathermatic master control valve and the Flow-clik? Thanks
I think I'll go with the Weathermatic 1.5" 21000 commercial series valve as my master control valve, 0 psi loss up to 15 GPM along with the Flow-clik placed after the master control valve. I'll still use drain valves in case of an unexpected freeze and I haven't blown out the system yet. Sound any good? Where can I buy the Flow-clik? Thanks
I am in frozen Northern Illinois, but I plan on blowing out the system in the late fall anyway. Maybe I should skip the auto-drain valves and the master valve!!!
Do they pop up then rotate or remain stationary? What brand is stamped on the top of the nozzle?
Aquamatic: I haven't installed my system yet. Still fishing for the best advice. I'm saying that if my automatic drain valves have already drained, and I have a leak in one of my zone valves allowing water to leak by, then the master valve would be one more stop gap to ensure I'm not wasting water.
Aquamatic or others: If one of my 9 zone valves has a small leak in the closed position and I have drain valves that need > 8 psi to close, won't I be leaking water out the drain valves and not know it? Just asking. Also, RVLI or others. What is the difference in a ASV vs PVB. Won't my 9 zone valves be under constant pressure when in the off position?Thanks Paterjb
First of all, are these rotors or sprays? What type? Sprays come in fixed arcs with fixed or adjustable patterns. Often,rotors have adjustable arcs and patterns.
Reason is economics/safety. Maybe it's overkill. I am installing 9, 1" Irritrol 2400T zone valves with auto-drains on each zone. Thought that if any of the zone valves leaked, the master valve would be a good Idea. Any thoughts? If after hearing advice from the forum I go ahead with the master control valve, what type should I buy for least pressure loss and what size? Thanks
What's the opinion for a master valve prior to the 1st manifold? Good Idea? Not? I have the room to install one but don't know if it's necessary. If so, what type is best, what size Master Valve for a 1" main line? Thanks paterjb
When hooking up from my 1"copper feed to my first valve manifold, do I use a 1"threaded pvc/slip fitting with glue or a pvc union or a copper union? What's the most common method of joining the copper to PVC manifold? I have 3 manifolds in all. Do they all need unions or can they be glued together? Thanks Paterjb
Thanks: So far I have 9 zones planned with the largest zones at 7.0 GPM (sprays) and 6.16 GPM ( 6 rotors) Thanks
If Peter means paterjb, I'm located in northern Illinois. Thanks again for all the help.
Tapped in to the 1" copper main last night. Meter is actually 1", not 3/4". WOW!!!! Getting 30GPM with the bucket test. Did it 3 times to be sure. Even weighed the water on a digital bathroom scale. 4.3 lbs (2.5 gal) in 5.0 seconds. If my math is correct, thats 30 GPM. Far better than my 7-8 GPM from the outside hose bib. Still, the pressure is 38-40 psi. Hopefully this will help out my system reuirements. I know these rates (30 GPM) don't agree with may of the tables out there, but that's what ...
I was pretty sure about other faucets being off when I did the bucket test 3 months ago. It is a outside hose bib connected through 1/2" copper pipe. I'm hooking into the 1" main this weekend with a drain between the shut off and capped off POC. I'll do the bucket test again off the 1" line/faucet. Thanks
RVLI:I have to use an RPZ as per city code. A PVB would be good as the other neighbors who didn't get a permit use, but I'm going to go by the book. RAINMAN: My feed to the house is 1" copper, through a 3/4" meter, back to a 1" copper line to the POC (~ 15-18') Hopefully you are correct and my flow is better that 6-7 GPM. POC is the same elevation as the hose bib was. Thanks paterjb
Stainless steel because they are free from a relative. That's the only reason!!!!
Still planning; Since I am near the low end of pressure to my heads (~25psi)after RPZ, Main and laterals, I am in a pickle concerning which swing joints to order. Choices are 1.Rainbird model TSJ-12075, 12in,3/4 X 3/4 mpt-psi loss = 1.5 psi @ 6GPM Cost = ~ 16.00$ each (WOW!!!!!) 2.Hunter swing joint, 12in,3/4 X 3/4 mpt =2.9psi loss @ 3GPM (1.50$ea) 3.Toro funny pipe, 12in with Two,3/4"mpt elbows = 0.52psi loss @ 3GPM Don't know the Toro price yet? Any suggestions? Are the Hunter swing joints tha...
Sorry, I meant 316 stainless steel , not slip X slip. So, can I use a stainless steel ball valve threaded onto 1" mpt copper fitting with teflon tape? Thanks paterjb
Can I use a 1" S/S ball valve with teflon tape as a shut off when I cut into my 1" copper line to feed my sprinkler system. Thanks paterjb
I'm starting to get confused. Comments from the forum say my designed system will work and others say it will not work. 38-40 psi before the Wilkins 1" RPZ as read through a 1/2" hose bib. Hope my guage is correct. Don't really know if it will rob 10-12 psi as stated in the wilkins literature. That leaves 26-30 psi to drive the rotor heads (5) 150 feet away in 1" poly pipe. Any thoughts? I am going to tee off my 1" main after the meter and go directly outside with 1" copper (~ 40ft). Will that h...
