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<font size="5"><b>Rain King Lawn Irrigation</b></font id="size5"> <b>Serving Central Virginia</b> Design/Installation/Maintainence/Troubleshooting of Residential and Commercial Irrigation Systems Call for a free Quote! <i><b>Hunter Preferred Contractor</b></i> <b>434-660-2766 Ask for Jeremy...The Rain Man</b>
My 2 cents...do not compromise your head locations due to trees other than to make sure your pipe layout does not impose on the established root system. Last thing you want to do is kill your tree. Good rule of thumb, don't trench within the width of the tree canopy. Otherwise, design for double overlap spray coverage and work around it. Place heads around curved walls just as you would straight, following the pattern of the wall at a double overlap distance based on your through radius. Make su...
Just make sure to use a hose clamp on the 1/2" poly barb.
Just make sure to use a hose clamp on the 1/2" poly barb.
Your flow rate is fine. At 18gpm you will have a water velocity of 6.7 ft/s, you want to keep this under 7.5 ft/s to avoid damage to system. How do you not have a water meter from the city? rain man
I would not plan to run your heads at 80-90 psi either, you will experience hammer and wear on your system. You may want to install a second pressure regulator off the tee to your sprinkler system and regulate down based on estimated pressure losses for a target of 50psi working pressure at your rotors.
Hunter PGP's have a through radius up to 50' at 60psi. However, designers typically won't space more than 30' due to wind affecting your overlap. I designed my own system w/ PGP's at 43' spacing and coverage is fine. Just make sure you have the pressure to get the coverage where it needs to go.
Were you able to do that design in Standard 2003 Microsoft Visio or is there another version for irrigation?
Based on your zone flow rates you have 15gpm not 22gpm. You may not need to split, provided your well and pump can deliver at least this amount. Remember that if you are running from a well through a pump w/out a pressure tank, whether you do 15gpm or 7.5gpm,all your zones will need to be approximately the same flow rate to keep your pump from cycling and wearing out. At 15ft. spacing you are borderline of spray heads versus rotors. You will definetly use sprays on the shrubs, I prefer Hunter Pr...
You can run 3 zones, (technically would be 1 zone if run at the same time), but you will have to change your pump if you add more later. Plus you'll probably need a 30 gpm pump (3 x 10 gpm/zone) to do that and that starts to get costly $$$. My suggestion..size your pump for 1 zone, put in control valves for each zone..don't try to run everything at the same time...that way you can put in a hundred zones and use the same pump. -rain man
You should decide on a maximum design capacity (total gpm) to each zone and desired operating pressure, rotors run well around 40psi, while spray heads run fine around 30 psi, and take that information to the pump dealer. They will size you up correctly based on this information. You can then use the same pump size no matter how many zones you have because you will run only 1 zone at a time with a total flow rate that is the same (or very close) for each zone.
Your water meter size and static water pressure will determine your flow rate (gpm), while your increased pipe size will only reduce your pressure losses due to friction. Do you have your static water pressure? -rain man
If you use a jar-top valve, you can unscrew the top to replace the solenoid on the valve w/out removing the housing. rain man
I thought you would get a bit more than 7-8 gpm. Your flow is going to depend on your meter size..so since your meter is 1"...you get 30 gpm. Definetly do not design your zones for this capacity unless you plan on running 2" pipe everywhere..which is not really feasible..since your static pressure is low to begin with you want to minimize any further losses in pressure..stick with 1" pipe and keep the flow <10gpm per zone. rain man
let us know what you get!
the reason I would cycle my zones is to keep runoff from occuring. the whole Idea is to conserve water so if you overload a zone by watering all at one time you will lose water to runoff. It is also very hilly were I live. Not sure why else, although 75 minutes seems very, very, long to run a single zone.
ahhh...thanks that is the information I was hoping for!
hey hey now...eazy fellas. just thought I would throw my 2 cents into this heated debate. static pressure is pressure of water at rest...i.e. what you start out with. Once that valve is opened static pressure becomes dynamic pressure or pressure of water in motion, and will decrease due to a number of factors such as friction loss, valves, increase in elevation etc. It may also increase due a a loss in elevation. In everyday life we should be using static pressure as a starting point to determin...
drpete3, Thanks for the feedback..my well is only theoretical...just looking for information.. I'm curious, do you install the well to be used for the irrigation system yourself or sub this out. If sub, how much does this cost? Based on quotes I have received, a new well installation $2,000 would nearly double the cost of the system for a residential job. Not very practical.. Thanks again!
With a 3/4" meter and 40psi static pressure your design capacity is 15 gpm. You sure no other faucets were running when you did the bucket test? 1" pipe is good for dynamic pressure conservation. good luck -rainman
