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Search results 1-17 of 17.
Quoted from "servicetechMA" If I understand correctly,where the funny pipe goes on the elbow at the bottom of the pgp, its leaking. Probably from to much heat which is easy to do.Only way to fix that would be to dig it up,cut it cleanly and apply only like 1 second of heat. According to the smarterst Irrigation guy in the world,hes got every certification in the world,teaches all the certifications,thats an absolute major PIA when we do jobs for him,because I dont think hes ever actually instal...
Water is leaking past the fittings for my sprinkler heads, where the funny pipe is pushed over the fitting, its not alot just a slow drip. I used blue stripe pipe funny pipe Also, do they make a pgp sprinkler head with a check valve in it? I got a head that bubbles water for awhile after it's shut off, low spot in the circuit!
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" Just use the controller Controller, what controller? Just kidding!
Quoted from "servicetechMA" hmmmmm. lol. I have blown out thousands of systems,you only need to do it from the clock. But,if you want to do it all three ways,its certainly not going to hurt a thing. -1st, They really shouldnt leak,or you should not see any water comming out of them.Water may pass through them for a second. If thats what you mean by leak,you are correct. If you are seeing water,thats not really normal. -2nd There does not need to be any current to manually open/bleed a valve. Va...
Ready for blow out, so I got a few questions! I want to operate my valves all 3 ways while blowing out! 1) once I turn the water on to the valves, I understand they may leak a little then close correct? 2) if I want to turn the solenoid to open the valve, must it have current to it? 3) should I male sure bleed screws are tight before turning on water? What position do they normally stay in? 4) when should I wire up the valves? Before I start or after I check for valve operation manually? I guess...
Quoted from "HooKooDooKu" The general rule is to make the runs as short as possible with as few turns as possible. This is done to minimize pressure losses. Generally speaking, it isn't going to make much of a difference if your pipe layout looks like a bunch of Tees or a bunch of Elles. Both are short direct paths. What you don't want to do is make a Z pattern... --------------------------+ ..........................| ..........................| +-------------------------+ | | +---------------...
After the valve it shows a 90 degree elbow going down, is this needed, i was gonna go straight! ????????????????
At Lowes in S.C. 10FT SCH 40 1-1/4 is $4.71 a stick, guess what 10ft SCH40 1'' stick is the same price, guess u guys know what I'll be useing then! Thanks guys, your patience and knowledge is priceless
So your saying 1-1/4 won't work or it's not needed? My longest run is 210' shortest 170', my dynamic was 50 but it was through 1/2'', im taping into 3/4 so ifgured it wouldn't be but maybe 5psi more, and I still need to get 40 to at my heads to get the distance i want
Guys I still cant make up my mind! Need help, Tappin in at 3/4, useing 3/4 DCVA ( wye strainer first) then going to 1'' manifold and valves! Was gonna go to 1-1/4 out of my manifold then use 1-1/4 slip tees with 3/4 threaded outlets, with 3/4 to 3/8 barbs with 1/2 funny pipe to my heads. Just can't seem to make up my mind on wether to use 1-1/4 or 1'' from my manifolds! I'm only doing my front yard with 3 zones this year, so where i go to 1'' i was gonna go 1'' x 1'' slip with a 1-1/4 slip tee t...
Does it have to be installed straight up and down, can i pull it to one side so i can remove the screen easily when it needs cleaning?
Where can i get a good filter with low pressure loss, I'm putting it in front of my DCA, and can some one please describe to me what non toxic means? I mean im gonna put feritlizer on the ground and water it, not actually inject it into the system? Should i be worried about my health? Also What is the deal with, regular dca's and lead free dca's! Thinking of useing a Febco 850, they have both type?
Quoted from "HooKooDooKu" Quoted I'm worried about pressure loss, i have 3 zones, each one 200 ft, i will have about 45psi after the valve loss! Add the pipe and i see to much loss for 1'' not to mention 3/4 or am i wrong? If you design for a flow rate of 10gpm, then you will lose about 5 psi in your 200ft of 1" pipe. If you design for a flow rate of 15gpm, you will lose about 10 psi in you 200ft of 1" pipe. So if you are only using spray heads, you have a little extra pressure to work with whi...
Quoted from "Mitchgo" Actually pvc prices have skyrocketed this year. The prices are quite different now. Most professionals stick with 1" as a standard for small-midsize residential systems. reduce back to 3/4 half way through your zone to save costs. I'm worried about pressure loss, i have 3 zones, each one 200 ft, i will have about 45psi after the valve loss! Add the pipe and i see to much loss for 1'' not to mention 3/4 or am i wrong?
Quoted from "HooKooDooKu" If you KNOW you are going to install irrigation and you KNOW where you're going to tap into the main line, if you need really accurate data, then tap the line and do the tests from there. Otherwise, my personal preference is to make sure the system is designed for a whole lot less water that what your system can produce (I still want to be able to take a shower while the irrigation system is on). As for the Class 200 pipe, I don't see any reason to use it for a DIY ins...
I have a 5/8 in meter, 3/4 sch 40 coming out of the meter to the house, there is a spigot right where the line comes into the house and the run is about 50ft! I got 72psi static, and 50psi dynamic, with 8.3 gallons a min flow! My plumber told me that where that 3/4 line comes into the house, it goes to 1/2, then to the 3/4 spigot! How can i determine my true gallons per min and dynamic without taping and doing it again! Also, how many Rain Bird 5004 pc rotors can i use in one zone, thought about...
