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Pleeaasssse tell me how this was done. This may be very useful since I service a system with a similar problem.
Unplug the transformer/power to the controller. Unplug the modules in question and re-insert them back into place. Plug the transformer/power back in. See if you still have a problem. If there is still a problem, remove the wires from those terminals and check your out-put voltage. Check the manufactured date or your reciept. I think Hunter has a 5 year warrenty on all their products. I hope that helps.
This seems to be a Toro 250/260 valve. Pick up a replacement solenoid for this type of valve and you will be set. Make sure that you install the o-ring from the existing solenoid. The replacement does not come with one. I hope that helps.
Let that zone run for awhile and check for a leak by walking through that area. Leaks can take several minutes to show. That would be your first step. If there is no indications of a leak than locate that zone valve and check it by turning on manually. If you still have a problem after that then you most likely have a valve diaphram/seat problem. There are a number of possible reasons. You just need to go through a trouble shooting process and start eliminating the possibilities until you figure...
The bonnet threads/screws into the brass body of your assembly.
Always start at the controller and work your way out. Use one of those solenoids or a voltage meter and check the controller. Turn zone #1 on and test the wire terminals in the controller. One wire to the common the other to #1 terminal. It should activate the solenoid or read 24v on the voltage meter. If you are good there start working your way to your valves. Is there a rain sensor on your system? Has there been any new plantings or any sort of digging since the last time it ran? Start there ...
I came across a situation like that once. What I did was switch a couple zone wires in the controller so that zone came on after a different one. Why that solved the problem I do not know but, it sure did. Try it and you will be able to see if it truely zone #2 or the zone following zone #1. It will tell you alot about what is going on. I agree with HooKooDooKu. A valve opening will not cause a water hammer but, it is caused by a sudden stop of flow. I hope that helps.
I checked with Sprinkler Warehouse first and I did not see it in their product line. If I missed it I am sorry SW. I do not wish to redirect business from SW but, after price checking I feel they still beat the list price on most products. You can get a Doubler at www.JohnDeereLandscapes.com. Once again, I am sorry if SW carries this product.
There is a device called a "doubler". It works great in a situation as you described. It acts like a train track switch. You wire this device to the one good field wire and then to the two valves. The only thing to keep in mind is that the device must go to rest between those two zone runs. This is usually achieved by running another zone run between those two or with a time delay between zones. Also, you just need to run a jumper wire in the controller between your selected zone terminals. It i...
When you had the shower fixed you turned off the house water at that main shut-off? I have came across many situations just as you have described. One of the first things I ask is if there was any plumbing work done. Usually the answer is "yes". You would not even think that would be the problem because everything is working fine in the house. As I stated before, your irrigation system demands more water flow. If that main shut off is just one turn (assuming that it is a gate valve) from being f...
The main shut-off should be fully open. That sounds like that may have hampered it from sealing. Correct that and give it a try. I feel that you may have it now.
This most likely a flow rate problem rather than a pressure problem. Your irrigation requires more water flow than your household fixtures. Have you had any plumbing work done since last year? I am assuming that the irrigation system comes off of your house lines. I would check your main shut off valve in the house to make sure that it is on all the way. In my opinion it is not the BF. That would be very unusual.
No. You probably didn't damage it. Did you slowly open that ball valve to the point of being open all the way? It is necessary to do so. Try once more and slowly open it to the point of being fully open. I understand that slowly to me may have a different meaning to you. On that particular valve it should only take a couple of seconds from closed to open. However, the other valve will take a little bit more time. If it continues to flow from the top let me know and I'll try to help you out with ...
Close both the blue handles, which are called ball valves, perpendicular to the line. They will be in the off positions. Also turn off the test cocks. "Slowly" turn your water on to the device. Go back to the device and "slowly" open the lower ball valve to the point of being fully open. You will have water coming out of the top at first but it will/should seal. Then "slowly" open the outlet valve, the highest valve, until there isn't the sound of water flowing. Open all the way at that point. D...
Those little valves that you are talking about are test cocks and should be closed. Close the valve on the outlet side and try again. At first you will have water flow out of the top, which is called the bonnet. It should seal and you will be ready to go. I hope that helps.
Since you had both checks and springs out at the same time the springs may have been switched. Remove them again and make sure that the thicker/stronger spring goes into the (top) #1 check. Also make sure that the spring is seated right with the assembly. If it still dumps there may be a problem with the relief gasket. Remove the bolts and check its condition. There shouldn't be any holes/cracks in it other than the manufactured holes. Also check the gasket in the relief assembly itself (white a...
Take out the #2 check and turn the gasket over within the assembly. This can only be done once. Each check spring provides a pressure differencial. When there is no longer that difference the water is released through the relief valve. That is just a brief description of how it works. When you lose the seal of your gasket you also lose your pressure differencial. I hope that helps.
You place one wire in the "pump" terminal and the other in the "common" terminal.
I'm not going to put down any product. "You get what you pay for" is very true in most cases and I'll just leave it that. I can say that I have serviced the Malibu line and my service fee was alot more than the product I was servicing. Use 8 gauge 2 strand wire for your main runs. Branch off with 14 gauge for single lights and 12 gauge for 2 to 3 lights. Keep in mind that with a 300 watt transformer you can get 8 to 9 30 watt lights on the circuit. The lower the wattage demand the more lights pe...
Usually there is the last 2 digits of the manufacturing year on the seal ring. Look for a raised dot with those 2 digits. This is the "manufacuring year" so keep that in mind and save those receipts.
