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it's possible that your potental leaks are 1/2" drain valves that are partialy open or that have failed.
if you can find the brand name on the union you should be able to go to any plumbing supply house and have them order the right part if they don't have it in stock.
pgp's are a good head but my preferance is for the rain bird 5000 because it does not take a special tool to make adjustments.
My preferance would be the pro-c, depending on how many stations you start with it's upgradable and I've never had a problem with one.
It's all a matter of adjusting the tightness of the riser, adaptor and nozzel. If you still can't get both edges to line-up you may need to go to a wider pattern nozzel and deal with a little over spray.
the next thing to try is seeing if you are getting signal both at the clock and the valves. If you have a spare solenoid touch the wires to the common terminal and each zone terminal as each zone starts and you should here the solenoid click if you have signal then try the same thing at each valve. If you have signal at both spots the solenoids are probably bad but if you only get signal at the clock the common wire probably has a break somewhere.
although I have not had this problem, have you tried an extension cord from another circuit to to the transformer to see if it trips another gfci.
If you go to home depot, Lowe's or any sprinkler supply house and get a slide repair coupling commonly called a slip-fix that will do the job. A slip-fix and a coupler will allow you to work in the area you already have dug-up without digging up enough pipe to flex in new pipe and couplers. I personally think the slip-fix is one of the best things ever made.
Although I prefer pvc myself, as long as there is no risk of excessive pressure surges a 100 psi rated line should be fine.
Both the manual bleed and the solenoid should be closed. When the timer sends current to the valve the solenoid will open.
Mitchgo is right. It's better to get the same valves and replace the guts and top.
My personal preference is the rain bird 1800 series. Although all pop-up heads can develop sticking problems, another problem I have found with the 570 is it tends to turn when it rises so is constantly out of adjustment.
What you need to do is go thru each program and make sure the master valve is set to off so the clock knows there is no master valve. Right now it sounds as if the valve setting is on so when the clock does not detect the valve it thinks there is a problem.
I recently had the same problem on multiple job sites and the cause is a solenoid that is not fully opening. Replacing the solenoid will fix the problem.
Try moving the station 2 wire in the clock to another station. It sounds like the number 2 terminal has gone bad.
As a last resort if a wire trace does not work find the head closest to the main water source and dig down to the pipe an see which direction it go's. You may even have to follow the pipe to the valve.
When you turn the main water off then back on does one valve come on or do all of them or none. Knowing which will tell you if the problem is a bad valve, one which the flow control may be open to far or a wireing problem.
What you should find at the begining of the drip line is the valve, pressure regulater and filter. It sounds like one of two possible causes, eather the flow control ov the valve is closed or the filter is plugged. You should be able to unscrew the filter cap and flush the filter and see if that helps.
Are zones 1 and 4 in the same valve box or is one in front and one in back. One quick check you can do is dissconnect one of the two stations at the clock. If both still come on the wires are cross-connecting in the valve box and as mitchgo says redoing the connections should fix the problem.
How are the heads mounted, fixed risers or swing pipe with elbows. If on fixed risers switch to swing pipe so you can use any head and won't have to lower the pvc pipe.
