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ya i have seen that once,no matter what the valve wouldnt open.couldnt pry the valve apart with a big screwdriver even,this usually happens with wells that have alot of sediment,as was this one. But is it possible you put the valve in wrong somhow.
You know what,Krain and Orbit are good heads also. I just think Hunter and Rainbird Corner the proferssional installers market. But K rains are good,so are orbit. They have pretty much the same strong gear assembly as Hunter.
This sounds like a master valve situation. did you put a wire in the MV terminal in the clock. If you didnt and you need to have power going to solenoid,and bleed open a valve,to get it to work. There is somthing seriousely wrong. post back about the master valve before I can even think of somthing else, to tell you to try lol. If you walk up to any valve in the yard,with the clock off,and a master valve installed somwhere. Any valve you turn on manually will not work.Unless master valve is bled...
In my opinion,thats a tough one. To be blunt,Hunter pgp,and pro sprays are better IMO. But its not night and day and here is why I think that, In my opinion,RAIN BIRD is ages ahead of hunter"although I just installed my first Hunter I-CORE Controller today and was pretty impressed. The hunter ICC as compared to the Rain Bird esp lx, The rain bird ESP is far more advanced,for about the same price.Its also more complicated,its not a homeowner friendly controller really.But it's nothing like the Ra...
If you need to get a new controller,I would go with a HUNTER PRO C, they are very easy to use,they are the most common clock,therefore we all know everything there is about it,and you can buy a $60 remote to wire in,and turn the system on from anywhere on your property. I know thats not what your question was lol. To answer your question. Any 10 zone capable controller will work. With hunter you will need the clock,plus a few modules. Pretty much any clock will do the job,but not all clocks are ...
you need to run a whole new wire from the clock to that box. lol I had to,couldnt resist. Just splice it back together man, it will be fine. strip about an inch of wire off,twist them together.you dont want to WRAP one around the other one,thats not a good connection,they should be intertwined. put the two wires next to each other,make a v,and twist from the bottom of the v. your probably saying i know how to twist a wire lol. but a strong connection is a good thing. make sure you twist the wire...
Alright,if you have no idea where the other valve boxes are,a master valve would be your best bet. But, if you go up to we will say a 5 valve,valve box. One of them is certainly weeping,and you know that it is. You want to get that valve to weap,however it has done it before,be it after the clock shuts them off,or after you bleed it on and it doesnt fully close. Once the valve is weeping,start opening valves until the heads that are pissing out from the weaping valve,turn on full blast.Thats you...
Yah it does. If your looking at your system after its been running a while, on an automatic program. As compared to walking up, and manually turning it on,when its been off for hours.Your well has recovered. example: Your water table is 22',when you see it after it has been on for 2 hours,the water table has dropped. When you go out at some random time after the well has been sitting,off,for a while. The water table is back up where it usually is. You should try to manually bleed on a valve,and ...
Personally I do not like mp rotators. We have installed thousands of them, My boss likes them for some reason. And when you first put them in,they work pretty good,they do the job,they look pretty good. I just went to a job today actually,5 zones of mps. They had a booster pump for town supply and everything,although they dont have the greatest pressure regardless. I think it was about 7 mp's per zone. Out of 35 or so mp's,3 of them wouldnt open,they get stuck closed and shoot a bunch of streams...
Well that all depends,if you can find the valve somwhere online,you can just replace the guts,pretty much the important parts that make the valve. If you cant find that valve,and you have 10 year old valves,and 1 just went. It would be in your best interest to replace them all. Somtimes,actually quite often,when you mess with somthing that is old,like heads for example. If you move 5 old heads, quite often 3 of them will leak after being messed with,its just the way it is lol. That could be the ...
holy crap lol,turn it clockwise,you can also turn main valve in house and also the valves on your backflow, of course you dont want to turn those if it makes any pipes slam in your house. the flow control valve should work just fine. im sure you mean the star looking knob which is the flow control,not the solenoid. just had to ask
Take a tiny allen wrench,somthing alot smaller than the arc adjustment key on the hunter key. All it is,is that the hole is jammed with dirt,with the proper technique any head can be adjusted.You have to of adj 1000's of heads though to get the feel for it. so just get somthing real small to clean out the screw.That will work for you. and once you can adjust,you can move heads,and once you can move a head you can add heads (pressure allowing),you can make your system more efficient ,system effec...
Ya Wet boots is right,if you have a yard with head to head coverage,it doesnt matter which nozzles you use really. As long as you nick the stream so there is more water from the head to the end of the stream, which you should do on any nozzle,your lawn will be fine. Personally,I have the Blue nozzles. I have seen thousands of red ones I wanted to be different for my yard. I like the blue they look better to me,they might water a little different because they are longer than the red ones. But jus...
Oh ya baby,money,lots of multimetering.Hopfully its not 100 degrees out where you are,that makes it suck even more. That should be alot of fun. Boy is that true,hope you have an ICR lol. HUNTER ICC=$$$$$ OR RAINBIRD ESP LX=$$$$$ Modules=$$ man hours=$$$$ Electrical testing=$$ Some people and there B.S-priceless lol
i would love that,i got some pics to show.
You friggen got that right haha. What about the TING sound of a trenching shovel hitting a gas line skimmed below the mulch, we have had a few of those,absolutely ridiculous and dangerous. Then pool lines that arnt disclosed,getting sued then having them call for a blow out,my boss saying to him,dude you FRIGGEN sued me. I didnt sue you I sued your insurance,ya who the hell do you think pays for the insurance,that was funny. He didnt win obv because contracts limit liability. They were in some r...
Open up the controller face,see how many colored wires, are wired up in there. It will look pretty empty with only 1 zone. If you have several then that valve pictured could be a master valve,it could possibly be faulty,bad solenoid or somthing,it would open though if you turn bleeder or solenoid. If you get confused about the main water valve in the house. Have somone outside,while you are inside,while you are standing right where the pipe would enter the house. Have them tap on it,its usually ...
Thats exactly what you want to do. If you are doing a bunch of them 10+ or so. The toro heads are almost 2x the size of a rainbird 5000,they also have a nipple type extension on the base where the threads are. The rainbird head also has this extension. The reason i say this is that you can unscrew and remove the toro head,it will leave a perfect hole where the head was,Being that the Rainbird head is skinnier,just drop the head right down the hole,it usually finds the Fitting at the bottom of th...
just skipped through quickly,have never seen those valves before,one of them isnt a master valve is it,when you turn one on it works,turn it off none of the others do. Maybe?
You should probably get a multimeter,autoranging. Your a do-it-yourselfer and this will come in handy with all kinds of stuff. Doesnt matter which color of the multimeter lead you put where. I will just explain it like it does. First shut clock off,turn meter to ohms. Open the controller up, put the RED lead onto the common "C" terminal,white is most likely the color. Then put BLACK lead onto each zone, while keeping RED lead on common. you will see a reading of about 35 on Irritrol valves, not ...
