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Im not 100% sure its galvanized, it was dusk, and it was covered with dirt. Could it be steel? I'll check tomorrow. But how would one know its restricted, except to cut it out and replace it? And what size/type of supply line would you replace it with...on a 5/8" water meter? I am pretty sure about the pressure readings, but I'll try it at different times, and on different days. As far as the line I took the pressure readings from, they are just typical outside faucets? Not sure what size, guess...
sorry, jumped the gun a little.. Ok...got the meter cover off, and its a "Badger 25", which from reading on the web means that the Water Meter is a 5/8" meter..like smallest there is..right? Uncovered the pipe, and it looks like steel or galvanized pipe, and is 3 1/4" in circumference, so its...what....3/4" pipe, supply to the house!! Crap! These are like the minimums of both.... My house is 3000 sq. ft, w/ 2 1/2 baths, dishwasher, laundry, water softener, and a sprinkler system....and I have th...
Quoted from "veidtmeister" But, theres some kind of metal collar around the outside of the faucets outside the house. Stuck my finger in there, and theres a rubber nipple extending down from the faucet??? and the water is pretty aerated...so I dont know what the hell that is, and if thats restricting the flow, and giving me the horrible GPM estimate that Im getting which is like 8.5 GPM. ok..so its a hose bib vacuum breaker....does that reduce flow rate?? I should probably mention, I live in Te...
hey guys, Im trying to rehab an old system I inherited....and Im replacing a bunch of valves, and fixing a bunch of leaks. I wanted to gauge my PSI and flow rate, just to know what to expect in terms of performance when I fix everything back to where its supposed to be. My wife picked up a water pressure gauge for me at home depot, but damnit, its a cheapass orbit meter. The first time I hook it up, it fills with water...sigh....and I got readings varying from 80 to 96, all within 30 min, but th...
dont think I was babbling....I tried to make it clear that it Does NOT activate the solenoid...at least not until called for by the controller...but it IS always supplying about 21-22 volts, even with the "rainoff" selected... when its called by the controller, voltage jumps to 26.5...so I got the valve working after vampiring parts and a solenoid from another valve, but theres still this voltage anomoly, which while it may not directly affect that one valve, could potentially be a problem as th...
doubt its supposed to energize just one terminal, and kinda doubt its a meaningless reading, or anomoly, as its always the same terminal, and always 21.5V...which wouldnt cause a solenoid to trip btw.... dont know what kinda refurb it was, it wasnt my controller, but I assume it was a board replacement. Anyway, I called Irritrol's controller repair, and they hadn't a clue, and were supposed to "check into it" (whatever that means), and call me back... still waiting....
thanks man... OMG....I thought Id just dig up the valve and replace it, since the solenoid appears to be shot..AND its leaking.. but...crap, I dug down, and its SMACK DAB in the middle of a huge clusterfrack of PVC pipes...and theres like an inch of clearance on either side of the damn valve....Oh my god... anyway....It looks like the valve is leaking from where the bonnet, or top of the valve meets the lower section of the valve, so I guess before I go into that nightmare of PVC, Ill just buy a...
so youre saying that theres just dirt in the nozzle? Okey dokey, guess I'll try to just clean em out, before I replace like a gazillion nozzles.. thanks bro..
Im a noob w/ a voltemeter...not sure how to check resistance. Gotta link???
ghost voltage? 22V? and only one terminal....? idk...sounds like a fubar'd board tbh. Sent in an old James Hardie that got fried..they then told me they had 100$ repair minimum, and just by coincidence, they could send me a Total Control that was refurbished for like 125$. I thought..hell...why not, its a better controller (old one didnt have surge protection), and I get a warranty...
Im a total noob, trying to rehab a long ignored, and unused system. When I turn on the system, Im dumbfounded, and perplexed at the layout of the heads...and the water distribution... For example, in one area, I have 4 heads that pop up, and their spray goes out like 20 ft. but then hits the ground in a 2" area, so it basically just waters a two inch strip like 30 feet long...lol... theres no spray, or water hitting anywhere else..I took a quick look at the head, and it has an adjustment screw i...
Hmmm.... Anybody??? I called controller repair at Irritrol, and the service guy is stumped. For one thing, I dont think he believes me...then he tells me that all of the terminals are supposed to be hot....then he asks me which station it is...then he tells me he could "test one of ours and see if it does the same thing..." not exactly garnering a lot of confidence in Irritrol, to be honest. so...Im sitting here waiting for him to call me back, and probably tell me he has no idea why its hot, an...
Bought a refurbished board and controller from Irritrol ("Total Control"), but when I check for voltage when the controller is in the "rain off" position, Im getting 24V coming into the controller, and 0 volts at every terminal except for terminal #6, which is reading like 21.5V...at all times... Is this a bad board? It shouldnt be hot all the time???
sigh... Got 28V leaving the controller, and 28V arriving at Solenoid, but when I attach the solenoid wires to the controller wires, Im getting 22.5V and the solenoids not firing... Bad Solenoid?
I have a system what was installed in 1993, and a couple of the valves are giving me headaches, so Im probably going to replace them this coming week. The old systme used PGA100 Rainbird valves, w/ flow control. Looking at the big box supply stores, all they seem to offer is the Rainbird CP-100. I could drive further and look around and probably pickup PGA-100's, but is it really worth it? Would you replace w/ what you already have, replace w/ a different rainbird, or just pickup the cheapo CP-1...
oh my god, I think Im going to go insane... I put everything back together to go inside, cranked it up just for the hell of it, and 2 of the 3 valves that werent working are now working???!!!!! (3 and 6). I checked the station terminals on the controller, and Im still getting like 22v on a terminal constantly, when it shouldnt be energized...?? So...i dont know whats up with that... Valve 9 is now only showing as 22v on the terminal on the controller??? I also pulled the top off of it, and the d...
Ok..I know youre totally exasperated w/ me, but.... 3 valves not working. (#3,#6,#9) all 3 valves getting 24V. All 3 open manually but not electrically. No buzz, or click at 2 of the valves. (Valve 3, Valve 6) One valve does fire plunger in solenoid, but no water flow(valve#9). Thinking this one has a bad/misaligned diaphragm? Took the solenoid that does "buzz" (picks up plunger)(from Valve #9) and tried it on another valve (#3) thats not making any noise. Hear a "chugging" sound in the bonnet, ...
yeah, I suck....Ill take pics and post when the wife gets home.... I dug through the file cabinet, and found the quote from the contractor...all it says is... 8- 1" PGA Electric Valves
I get ya, but I cant find my digital camera, and the wife (w/ the Iphone) is at work. Hopefully you'll take pity on me, and try to help me w/o a photo, until I can get one up. Current Problems... I thought I'd just replace the solenoids, and see if that solved the problem. Went to Home Depot, and their "Rainbird Replacement" solenoid wasnt the same as my Rainbird Solenoid. The base was MUCH wider, and threads were different....I looked at the toro and some other "replacement" solenoids, and they...
