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Hey, I never thought to ask, do you guys think there is any reason that the CPF100 Rainbird valve wouldn't work as a master valve or is there a better choice. For now I've been using the CPF100, but haven't really fired the system up at all. TeaMan
Good point Mitchgo, I think I have it solved anyway. I guess just anal. Wanted it fixed. TeaMan
You know Wet Boots, I do have a master valve, and thought about exactly what you were saying, even if I have a small leak, it won't be under constant pressure when the system isn't running. I guess I convinced myself that the master valve could leak "possibly" and I wouldn't want a leak on the main. I'll inspect my entire mainline pipe for leaks, but don't suspect I'll find any in the pipe itself. I am curious if anyone has seen a solenoid valve to weep? Or at least before it was actually powere...
I have Rainbird CPF series valves, 11 of them. I don't have power to them yet, so I'm operating them manually. I feel like I have my leaks gone now, but I'm loosing lots of pressure, fairly fast. I went to every fitting on the main line, inspected for wet below the fitting, and ran my finger below every fitting and they are dry. I'm loosing about 2 1/2 PSI over about 1 hour it seems. If it's not going through the solenoid valves or one of them, I am really stumped as to where it's going. I turne...
CRI IRR, I went with the 42SA+ & 32SA because I had Rainbird do my design and that is what they specified. I looked at the 5004 and 5012 on their site, and they look to be pretty much the same, especially the 5004. It's almost identical. The 5012 may have a 12 inch pop up which may help a bit. I ended up going 1/2" above the ground. I measured my mower at #2 and it was higher than that, and I never go below #2. My wheels on the deck are on the grass at that height. I mow 99% of the time at #3 wh...
Good enough for me, one less thing to worry about, install, etc.... Thanks.
Do you guys think a strainer is needed before the RPZ? The installation pictures for them all show a strainer, and I'm on a municipal water system. It seems that it not be needed on a municipal system or are the RPZ devices that sensitive that even a small particle can cause them to malfunction? TeaMan
Thanks for the advice and tips guys. I have a couple options to try now. I'm not going to fill the trench around my manifolds until the leaks are done, so I can start with Wet boots suggestion to try two new clamps one more time applying a little heat. If that doesn't work, I suspect the pipe has stretched at the fitting, and I'll replace a couple feet as you suggested Mitchgo. I did find some pretty heavy duty clamps at a NAPA auto parts store in the next town yesterday. They look very much lik...
Thanks for the replies. I googled the two ideal clamps you recommended but they don't resemble the picture you showed. They resemble the ones I'm using but may definitely be stronger. I did see some that looked like your picture too, but would be leary to buy them without actually touching them unless a specific part number was recommended and I'd be sure someone else like you has used them. Would you have a specific part number for one like the picture, or would you say that the Ideal clamps (6...
I wanted to post a little more information. When I pressurize the system it seems to drop about 2 PSI within the first half hour or so and then will hold about 60 psi for about 12 hours. It's somewhat hard to tell exactly on the pressure because our temps are swinging from about 60 degrees during the day to as low as 34 degrees at night. I actually had a 2 to 4 psi increase this morning from last night, but lost about 10 psi during the day today. I did find a drip on one fitting that I put a thi...
I'm pressure testing my system by putting main line water pressure on, closing a ball valve and a solenoid valve and letting it sit with a pressure gauge on it. I've had leaks on pretty much every connection on the main line. The main line is 1 1/4" poly pipe, and the manifolds are PVC. I have a fitting on the manifolds that is female 1 1/4 threads on the manifold side and 1 1/4" poly barb on the other. I had some leaks on the threaded joints and some on the barbed joints. The threaded joints to...
My mistake totally, my valves are flow control, not pressure control. I had pressure on the brain obviously. They are CPF-100's. My GPM at the exit of the house to the sprinklers is about 32 GPM and rainbird designs for 21 GPM so they designed the flow reduction valves. My elevation differences in 3 of my zones is about 4 feet. I should be able to adjust any problems out of the system. It doesn't have to be perfect. My heads are 42SA+, 32SA and surepop 600's such as the SP40H. Good advice on the...
That worries me a bit, my pressure is 60 psi at the supply which is pretty good for my area. In other posts I had researched, I thought I saw problems around 20 psi so I thougth I'd be OK. Would you not recommend the 009 for pressures around 60 PSI? I had to put pressure reducing valves in to reduce to 40 and 30 PSI for proper head function according to my Rainbird design, so I thought I'd be OK with the pressure I have. As I say, this worries me a bit. Problems I don't need. Maybe there is a be...
Would you say that functionally they are equal as far as protection? Seems to me that if they are, and the 919 requires disassembly to winterize, then the 009 would be the better, especially since it's significantly less expensive. Would the 919 just be older technology and the 009 newer?
Does anyone know the difference between a Watts 919 and a Watts 009 RPZ device. I can't seem to be able to find much of any information on the Watts 919 online, even a place to buy one, but the local plumbing shop said it's the one his supplier has. I can find lots of info on the Watts 009 and online sources. The cost of the 919 is significantly higher than the 009. Any ideas? TeaMan
No different than an underground well pump to service a rural house. I grew up with one and never saw a failure. Besides the why wasn't the question.....
I have a fairly large system I'm about in the middle of installing. It has over 2500 feet of poly pipe and about 150 heads with 12 zones. My yard is approximately 1 acre. I trenched the whole system rather than using a knife for various reasons I won't get into. Now I'm wondering when I can safely backfill.... I'm wondering how, and if anyone pressure tests their system before firing it up. I can see pressure testing the main line up to each manifold. This is fairly easy since the main can be tu...
Thanks, that's good advice.
I live on a hill, there will be no flooding, the yard slopes so heavy rain will run off and if the pump box is a couple inches above the ground, it won't get any water in it. If it does, it will be minor and the gravel bed at the bottom will take care of that. Why below grade, I don't want a pump house sitting in the middle of my yard, and I wasn't able to find a suitable submersible pump that didn't require an unsightly pump house above ground in the middle of my yard.......
I'm installing my pump underground next to a Cistern that catches rain water. Does anyone know of a source for a box similar to a valve box that is big enough to house a pump and filter? Also, any advice on any kind of filtering device for the bottom of the suction line like a foot valve with a strainer? The suction line is 2". Filters: Any advice on a filter after the pump on the supply line? How about the mesh size? I read that 100 mesh would be fine to keep the sprinklers clean. Float: Any ad...
