Search results
Search results 1-20 of 458.
Undercutting: run the water long enough to see if water comes out from under the slab. If you do so the water carries soil away with it leaving a void. Best to find ANY pipe? Hard to answer but yes. If you re-route the main and still remove all pipes then you might end up moving pipes that are now disconnected and harmless. However, until you know they are harmless they are dangerous. Main lines are usually, not always, larger. Also, the zones feed off the main. If you find a line with a zone co...
Burying your valve boxes reeks of incompetence. That is ridiculous. Without seeing the site: IF you assume you know where the main line is and it is THE ONLY MAIN LINE then cutting it and re-routing would take care of anything down stream. However, the irrigator may have run two main lines, one to each side of the house. It's been done many times to avoid obstructions or extremely long runs. Or your line may have been put in as a loop to help with pressure and flow. Finding other heads under the...
Simple answer is sure, why not? Splice onto the end, if possible, and keep going. The problem may be you end up with one zone with 8 heads and one zone with one head. I have seen 2 or 3 houses this year where pool installation left them with a 1 head zone.
First, turn off the system. Only an engineer could tell but a minor leak under a slab probably didn't kill the structural integrity. However, I've done a great deal of concrete work in commercial construction, from building slabs to streets. If the concrete was completely cured before you turned the system on you may have a small void or two but the slab is unharmed. Once the slab is cured it's pretty much impervious to leaks. It would take a long time to cause damage. Excluding freezes. You get...
My first step would be to confirm it's the wiring. Find the valve for either zone. Turn the bleed screw or solenoid and turn it on manually. Do both zones come on? If so they are cross linked in the piping. If not you have to start tracing wires.
If nothing else worked, reset controller and start over. Make and model?
One zone or all zones? If only one then could be broken wire, failed connection at valve, failed solenoid, stuck valve. First find the valve and see if you can turn it on manually. Come back with a few more details: how many zones, how many are acting up, controller make and model, etc.
Ok gentlemen, Every one take a deep breath and relax. Transorb, a couple of things to consider. First, no, the master valve might not fix the problem but it will fix the symptom. End result is the same. You have already put in a great deal of work on this. No use wasting any more. I understand wanting to find the actual problem as I share it. It irritates me to not know why something is going wrong. However, in the field we focus on the end result. A master valve will stop the seepage. You said ...
First, listen to Boots. What you want can be done but seems like a lot of digging and piping. Fairly easy if you are going to manually switch between the sources, bit complicated if you want automatic switching. Put in your RPZ, add a ball valve on the main line, T in your lake source after that ball valve, have a ball valve on the lake source, have fun.
Can anyone identify these valves? Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Ideally, move it. If not practical and you can sleeve it then definitely do so. Splicing the wire is no big deal. Use water proof connectors of the right size. I've seen more than one pipe under concrete break causing expensive repairs. I've also seen lines cut by the people putting in patios and pools. The more protection the better.
First, look at MP Rotators . They are a different breed than the rotors or spray heads. They will be very helpful in your situation. Note the distances they cover and they fit on existing pop ups. Hunter PGP is the most popular rotor out there and comes with 12 nozzles to adjust flow. The Rain Bird 5004 is, in my opinion, just as good and I like the spray distribution better. It comes with 12 nozzles also but 4 are for low angle, not usually needed. Either will work.
You know without asking I don't have a Linux machine to test Opera on. I also don't have one at the house. But I did just grab an old tower that is dying for something new....
You'll have to add a head or two in both of the grassy areas on right of steps. Boots is right on the hardware. To get the water off the walk by the pink zone you can cut back on the angle of the rotors and add a couple of popups on the curve, one at the sidewalk next to the rotor spraying back in. It's messy but could give you what you need.
Ok. Computers being my first geek love I can't back down from a challenge.Just downloaded Opera 12. Signed on and typing this in same. Only difference so far is different default font.test link Only deal breaker so far is I can't change font color. and you know I have to have green. Also can't view source code, which is usually minor but can be a problem.
I do use Opera periodically. Do a bit of computer support on the side. I keep a copy on a flash drive for when I hit a computer with a virus that has taken control of Explorer/Firefox. Chrome doesn't always work in those situations for some reason. Opera is one of those programs that suffered from lack of marketing, not from functionality. But as your graph shows the user base isn't there. We keep this up and they'll kick us to a different forum.
There are devices that will locate the short. One is the Armada GFL3000. Problem is I don't know of anyone who rents them. There are 3 places your wire could be failing. Two are easy: at the controller or at the valve connection. After that it's anywhere in the underground run from the controller to the valve. Hard to find. If you have another valve closer than the controller you can use ADD-A-ZONE to regain control of the zone. You still dig but it might not be as far.
Probably won't ever work. I just asked the IT guy. Said they did it previously and were swamped with porn links and spam. It got embarrassing. They decided to kill links. I've heard of Opera. Isn't that one of those old steam powered browsers?
He called in. Five zones. One solenoid always gets power (zone 5) even if the controller is turned off. Zone won't shut down without killing feed on main line. One solenoid finally burnt out from constant voltage. He replaced. Told him to start at controller. First unplug. This makes sure no power coming from other source, like lighting wire or new electrical, shorting across control wire. When this verifies no other power source plug back in and disconnect all zone wires, test voltage at each t...
