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Tuesday, April 22nd 2014, 7:34pm

Author: NABRIL

Rotating/turning my Hydrotek 6000 valve

Got it and thanks. Leave the valve where it is and move the pump, reconnecting it to the valve with various elbows; I will try to use 45° elbows as much as possible.

Monday, April 21st 2014, 7:18pm

Author: NABRIL

Rotating/turning my Hydrotek 6000 valve

Let's see if this works. [img]http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=a4lppy&s=8[/img] [img]http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2u6zlty&s=8[/img] So, you're saying to use elbows to extend and reroute the outside pipes over the concrete, and then rotate and put my valve the way I want to point it? But I don't want to add a lot of elbows since that will cause resistance and reduce pressure slightly, right? Or not really? I wish I could drill the concrete and have the pipes stick out of it, but I think that wo...

Friday, April 18th 2014, 10:14am

Author: NABRIL

Rotating/turning my Hydrotek 6000 valve

wET BOOTS I got you a picture, and I continue to thank you for your help. The 20kb limitation makes it tough to post though. I want to rotate/move that blue well pump to where the black triangle is. My valve on the right has the active zones with a red circle, and the empty ones with green. In looking at it and if I have to keep the active zones in 1 and 3 per the documentation, it looks like my only option is to keep it as it is, and put in 2-45 degree bends to the left of the sediment filter. ...

Thursday, April 17th 2014, 2:51pm

Author: NABRIL

Rotating/turning my Hydrotek 6000 valve

[attach]99[/attach]Ok. The attached picture represents my valve, and I have 2 lines capped for future expansion (numbers 2 and 4), and my 2 active zones are 1 and 3. So. I want to rotate my valve 45 degrees to the left, and the tubes obviously stick out of the ground, which I will cut for this rotation and reseal with couplings. Because of the turn, my active zones may now end up in holes 2 and 4, instead of my present 1 and 3. Is that ok? In the documentation of the valve I read that this valve...

Monday, April 7th 2014, 10:48am

Author: NABRIL

Rotating/turning my Hydrotek 6000 valve

Hello I am contemplating moving (rotating) my pump 90 degrees, and, of course, I will have to cut my existing 1.5" pipes that feed my Hydrotek 6000 valve, so that I can rotate it 90 degrees. I am using it with 2 zones, and I believe they are holes 1 and 3; the other 2 are capped. In looking at the documentation I see that the irrigation pipes/lines have to be in opposing holes. Once I cut all 4 pipes, can I rotate the valve and use 2 and 4? When using this valve, does it matter which 2 you use a...

Wednesday, May 8th 2013, 11:29am

Author: NABRIL

Suggestion for replacement for better solution for valve

Quoted from "Wet_Boots" Any modern controller will have multiple schedules. ok, and what type of valve do I need to get that can be controlled?

Monday, May 6th 2013, 12:25pm

Author: NABRIL

Water overflowing out of side of rotor

Hello I replaced a spray head that was in 1 of my zones with a 4 inch rotor to better cover the area. I see that this new rotor, however, has water gushing out of the side of the riser while functioning. It happens to be located at the end of a downward slopping pipe run. Is the gushing water an idication of too much water pressure for that rotor? Do I ignore it? Thanks

Monday, May 6th 2013, 12:12pm

Author: NABRIL

Suggestion for replacement for better solution for valve

Hello My sprinkler system was installed with an indexing valve (a black cap with pvc pipes coming down into the ground. the black cap has 6 screws on top) to control 2 zones--1) rotors and 2) spray heads. The rotors mainly water the grass, and the spray heads get the orchids, flower beds, etc. At present I water every other day using an Intermatic timer that only lets me set 12min cycles. So the pump comes on, waters for 12, rests for 12min, and then waters the other zone for another 12. I have ...

Thursday, January 3rd 2013, 7:25pm

Author: NABRIL

Downward sloping front lawn sprinklers leak out. Install check valve sprinklers?

Quoted from "Central Irrigation" What model of Toro rotors? CENTRAL----thanks again. I correct-----I have Rainbird 5000 rotors. I was looking at the T5 series on the SW site for 2 reasons. The technician from the irrigation company came to look at my leaking rotor, and told me that the puddles come from the water stream hitting the tall grass blades. He might be partially right, but I think he is full of it. The T5 extends 5 inches and comes with a optional check valve; however, I dont see the ...

Thursday, January 3rd 2013, 9:14am

Author: NABRIL

Downward sloping front lawn sprinklers leak out. Install check valve sprinklers?

thank you and happy NY Water cost is of no concern, since I am using well water. However, I dont want to waste it either, and I hate the large puddles that accumulate on the sidewalk. The irrigation company installed Toro brand for everything. Any preference? Pricewise, they are all relatively close, so not a big issue; I only need to buy 3 at most, so this doesnt involve a big expenditure. I see that mrfixit pasted 2 links for Hunter and Rainbird. I would prefer (if i had a choice) to stay with...

Thursday, December 20th 2012, 3:05pm

Author: NABRIL

Downward sloping front lawn sprinklers leak out. Install check valve sprinklers?

As the subject says, my front lawn slopes downward quite a bit. I dont have the exact angle, but it can easily be a foot to 2 change in elevation. I've notived that some of the heads at the very bottom, leak out when the watering is done, and I read in another thread somewhere that sprinkler heads exist that can prevent this leaking; they have a check valve that precents the flow of water back out, and it also alleviates the issue of water spurting out of the heads before it. Sure, the installer...

Sunday, December 16th 2012, 5:53pm

Author: NABRIL

Way to better close off a nozzle head

Hello I know that I can turn the screw clockwise on top of the nozzle in order to close the flow of water, but for some reason I have 2 that still spurt out water despite tightening that screw. I also know that, if I wanted, I could dig around the area, remove the riser, and screw in a threaded pvc cap. If I do that and I want to re-enable that nozzle in say 4 years, I will have no way of locating where that cap is. Is there some female threaded "cap" that can be screwed into the riser in place ...

Wednesday, December 12th 2012, 9:46am

Author: NABRIL

Guidance needed with positioning of nozzle heads

I have no wires to the valve and the valve switches on its own after 6 seconds of off time (i was told). Why new pegs? Quoted from "wsommariva" Wet boots says you can just get new pegs. If that works I would stick with it and save some $$. Hunter has a good selection of controllers. Basic up to advanced. Check their site. I assume you have low voltage wire to the valves?

Tuesday, December 11th 2012, 8:01pm

Author: NABRIL

Guidance needed with positioning of nozzle heads

thank you again wet boots Quoted from "wsommariva" Don't know what kind of controller you have (metal pegs?), maybe time for an upgrade that will easily allow more options. You can get adjustable heads that will go less than 180 degrees. I have an intermatic mechanical timer (yellow wheel) that has metal pegs that you put in it to trip the on/off. Each peg position is 12 minutes of on or off. So I have 2 pegs after each other for zone 1 (the big rotary heads), an empty peg (to let the valve swit...

Tuesday, December 11th 2012, 8:53am

Author: NABRIL

Guidance needed with positioning of nozzle heads

thank you. what is cycle and soak? I have my timer set for 24 mins (2 pegs of 12). Is that perhaps too long? Should I have 12 mins, 12 min wait, 12 min water? How do I accomplish that? As you know, when Intermatic timers shut off, the valve switches to the other zone. So to water, pause, and water, I would have to come up with some ingenious way to use the metal pegs, and it will be too confusing...and actually impossible. I have 2 zones--my rotating heads, and my stationary popus. My timer is p...

Monday, December 10th 2012, 2:18pm

Author: NABRIL

Guidance needed with positioning of nozzle heads

Hello I have an issue with some sprinklers in my front lawn, and I appreciate your input. I enclose a picture of a side view of a section of my front lawn. To the right is a downward sloping span of 50 feet of so that starts at the feet of the house, and slopes down to the sidewalk. The black T's are the sprinkler heads labeled A, B, C, and D (Toro 570's..with 180 degree patterns for B, C, and D. A has a 90 degree pattern). Nozzle A gets the lawn, but also leaves a huge puddle out on the street....

Thursday, June 28th 2012, 10:07am

Author: NABRIL

Miami sprinkler system using well water...help

thanks again Central. In my install I have spigot, shutoff valve (close by), and eventually filter. Dont I want the pressure relief valve to be the first thing exiting the pump, BEFORE the shutoff valve? Say I have the shutoff valve and the spigot accidentally closed. The pressure buildup could ruin my pump, right? Does the relief valve HAVE to be the 530c poppet style? Or can it be something like this: http://www.pexuniverse.com/zurn-p1000a-30c-wilkins-3-4-pressure-relief-valve It's about half ...

Tuesday, June 26th 2012, 8:29pm

Author: NABRIL

Miami sprinkler system using well water...help

thanks for helping, but i dont understand what you are trying to say with your reply.

Tuesday, June 26th 2012, 1:22pm

Author: NABRIL

Rainbird 5000 rotor heads acting strange

Hello I have 2 stubborn RB5000's that refuse to behave after adjusting the right stop. I insert a thin flat-head screwdriver into the adjustment hole on the back part of the rotor head, and it feels as though I am turning it. But the rotors continue to spray over the pool unnecesarily. I usually try to adjust them while on, so that I can see the result. No luck. Am I doing something wrong? Thanks