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Yep, that was the one with the brand new valve diapragm. For kicks, and mainly to see if I could cap the existing pop ups, I pulled one of them off and ran it. There was no noise, obviously that wouldn't work, but free flowing there was no thumping. There is one more valve that I didn't know about, a pressure reduction device after the water meter. I picked up a water pressure gauge, our water pressure read 100-110 PSI. So, went to adjust that, and guess what, it won't change, won't adjust up or...
Replaced one of the troubled zone valves (100DV) with a bonnet from a 100DVF. I turned down the flow until it didn't thump. One of the heads now only sends water 1', the rest are not even covering 1/2 what they did before and leaving a lot of lawn without water. Another oddity, some of the heads were "jumping" up and down, or pulsating up and down. When the system is thumping, most of the "noise" appears to be coming on the copper side, I barely feel any pulse/thud on the valve, but the backflow...
I take it the bonnets are interchangeable so I don't have to fully replace the valve, just remove the screws, disconnect the solenoid, and replace.
I guess there could be a leak somewhere. . . The Rainbird valves are 100DV, I can't seem to spot a flow control bonnet for that model, any idea if they make one or another would work?
Since I have 2 types of valves (thanks to the builder installing the front and contractor the back) I replaced one of the thumper valve diaphragms (rainbird) and that did not solve that zone's problems. There was nothing wrong with the old one that I could tell, but the new one did NOT solve the thumps. Could the backflow be causing the thumps? It has a small crack and needs to be replaced anyway, just working up the nerve to give that a shot.
Congrats on 3000 posts! So my valves are all on a manifold, would a faulty diaphragm cause thumping?
Add some more troubleshooting that I have done recently. I turned off one head at a time in one trouble zone, until the noise/vibration stopped. This only occurred after 4 of the heads were stopped, removing 1/2 of the zone. These zones operated without trouble for years, no changes in the heads etc (don't know if there was a pressure change, but the interior hasn't observed one) The physical vibration seems to be centered around the Back-flow preventor. Could my flow have increased by 2-4x with...
For the zones that are thumping, restricting the ball valve to ~25% (almost off) removes the sound. There is also not enough flow to properly water with it this restricted, but it does rectify the situation. Now does that mean it is a diaphragm? Or possibly the FebCo with the slight leak?
From the house, there is the main supply, copper pipe from the house, with a ball valve and drain. Then the FebCo with ball valves on both sides of it. Then the manifold boxes with valves. I'll try to restrict the flow tomorrow, not sure how to do that but I'll read a bit tonight. When you say diaphragm on the load zone, is that an add on or a part of the valve that needs to be replaced?
I figured this was different enough, plus I've asked numerous live folks with limited success. . . so here it goes: The past two seasons I've had a thumping sound, not when the zone turns on or off, but the whole time the zone is running. The frequency of the thump as well as intensity varies with different different zones. Not all the zones are problematic. I have been able to open an inside sink to diffuse some of the noise, but this seems to be a waste and isn't very effective. There is no ex...
