OK, now it makes sense. Thanks for the help.
No, I don't believe so. I'm getting this directly from the Rainbird website. The Rainbird site doesn't talk about the 5000 rotor at all (with the exception of replacement parts available for it). If you go to the following link and look at their rotors (Specifically closed-case rotors)...you'll find their current line-up. It looks to me like the 32SA /42SA is a replacement for the 5000 series, not another name for it. http://rainbird.com/diy/products/rotors/index.htm Closed-Case Rotors: T-Bird S...
I've been looking at the new RainBird 42SA rotor. The RainBird website has limited info on this rotor. In the "features and benefits" section they state the following (partial list): a)Distance: 26 to 38ft b)Easy arc adj from the top using flat head screwdriver c)Pre-installed 3.0 Rain Curtain nozzle d)Reversing full and part circle rotation from 40 to 360 deg e)Radius adj screw allows up to 25% radius reduction without changing nozzles etc.... The "one page" instruction sheet PDF file only give...
Our local Home Depots (Western NY) are pathetic when it comes to irrigation. They don't carry any brands of sprinker systems, and they don't even carry poly pipe. It's easy to find good sources of buying irrigation products on line (such as Sprinklerwarehouse.com). But I haven't found a good source for the poly pipe yet. I'll be using 1" tubing. Any good sources out there?
I'll preface my question by stating that I live near Buffalo, NY....so obviously we have very cold winters. I have 3/4" copper service line which I'll be converting to 1" (or maybe larger?) copper right after the water meter. I plan on taking that to the outside of my house (over the foundation) and running to an outside (but probably covered) Backflow preventer that's mounted a foot or two above ground level. Still using 1" copper, I'll go into the ground where it will start splitting off to th...
Hmmm....I don't think that's entirely accurate. To my understanding, there are some backflow units that can be mounted without concerns for altitude. I'm pretty sure the double check units would be an example. I will probably be installing the backflow above ground so I'm not going to worry about that part so much right now. Probably my bigger curiosity would be if it's OK to split the output AFTER the backflow in my basement. Again, this is assuming I went back into the basement on the output o...
I'm looking at a design that will use fertigation. I'd like to put the fertigation unit in my basement (we live in Western NY). I haven't completed my research on backflow protection. I do understand that some types of backflow can be located in the basement. That would be great, but my hunch is that the backflow will need to be outside. I have 3/4" supply, 5/8" water meter, and 70psi. I'm thinking about attaching 1" copper right after the meter (through a shutoff valve) going straight up to the...
Not to answer my own question.....and I can't yet. But I did do some follow up research. I called RainBird and talked to their tech support dept. Of course they wanted me to do the "bucket test" which irrigationtutorials.com says is a unreliable test. But when I pressed them, they were able to look up in their charts to calculate my expected flow rate. Their charts said 10gpm....just as irrigationtutorials.com had stated. So I'm guessing the 22gpm I'm getting from the town is with zero load. UGH...
I'm trying to be as scientific as possible on my design. I've spent time over at irrigationtutorials. com. Obviously the guy that runs that site seems to have a plethora of knowledge. Hey....I think that's the first time I've ever used plethora in a sentence!!! Anyways, for my 3/4" copper supply line going to a 5/8" water meter, irrigationtutorial.com claims my MAXIMUM flowrate will be 10 GPM. Note: our static water pressure level is 70psi. This info comes from the town AND my direct measurement...
