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Quoted from "dan5505" Should the PVB be in the crawl space or exterior to the house? The PVB should be a foot and half higher than the highest sprinkler head. You would want to mount the PVB at the top of that u section in the horizontal leg. experience is learned just after you needed it most
Quoted from "JSauce18" So I recently bought one of those 12V Landscape Spotlight kits for my backyard. It came with 4 10W lamps, a 60 watt transformer and an 18 gauge-50' electric wire. I need about 50 more feet of wire but I'm not sure which gauge to go with. Any suggestions? if the light is only 40 watts, You should be fine in keeping with 18 gauge wire for another 50 feet. experience is learned just after you needed it most
Quoted from "TomD365" 27 PSI at the sprinklers. I intend to use all sprays or MP Rotators. MP rotators are not going to work well at 27 psi, if at all. When Hunter says they work best at or need 40, they mean it. If you have the pressure to run them they work great but performance takes a nose dive very very quick if you don't have the pressure. There isn't any wiggle room at all with them.
You might measure your voltage. Turn the system on to water. Using a volt meter with the setting on AC ~ . Put the black lead on the ommon terminal and the red lead on the zone terminal. You should be reading 24V on each zone. If you are reading 24V at the controller terminal, and the valve is not opening, then you have a problem with the wiring or a bad solonoid. Since this apparently started happening all at once to several zones, it's doubtful you have all bad solonoids at the same time. I co...
No, I didn't say that or intend to make any point other than to say why the pro's use such a big one. Apologies for any misunderstanding about that.
Quoted from "4U2NVME" Who'd knew it take so long to install an irrigation system, 4 days, 15- 18 hour days and still going... getting a bit tired LOL. I feel your pain. I did every inch of mine, I mean all of it, by myself. 47 heads, 9 zones and about 1300 feet of trenching. Took me a little over 2 months working all day on weekends and most weekdays after work till dark. dd experience is something learned just after you needed it most
If you put the irrigation system first, you are likely to tear up some pipes and sprinkler heads and bodies when tilling and at best, have to hand till around the sprinklers which is a real pain. Especially when it's hot! Kill it first. Give it about a week to make sure the Roundup or whatever you use is working well. Apply more roundup to kill any stragglers. After its all dead, mow it as low as possible and rake it clean, then till it. After tilled, go ahead and do a rough smooth out and remov...
you will need to determine what the radius of the sprinkler head needs to be to water the area properly and what the spray pattern each spray head you require is. Then you need to measure how far it is from head to head on what you have now. Then look at the sprays available and determine which spray head is best for your application. Pay attention to the PSI that you have and try and determine what the psi will be at the spray head. Some heads work better at X psi than they do at x+ or x- psi. ...
Quoted from "PennyInHeels" Ah! I may have found the answer - as a last resort I found and read the manual! Eliminating a Program Start Time: With the dial set to the SET PROGRAM START TIMES position, push the + or - button until you reach 12:00 AM (Midnight). From here push the -> button once to reach the OFF position. Yup. You found it! dd experience is what is learned just after you needed it!
Quoted from "njitgrad" Am I missing something here? Usual disclaimer here, Im not a pro sprinkler guy, but Im a pro at some other stuff. The flow is whats important... if you add up all the area inside the pipes that are full of water, that is going to add up to a lot more area than you might think. A comparable task to blowing out the irrigation system, would be maybe to blow out a couple of huge tractor tires full of water, with only a few small holes for the water to escape from..... It will...
Quoted from "JonnyB" Well, I can't get a picture to copy and paste in this post. Not sure how the other guy above did it. I didn't notice before, but the sticker on the solenoid says 24 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 3.5 Watt. I don't know tons about electricity (enough to get myself in trouble), but is there a way to figure out amps from the watts? To calculate the amperage, divide watts by volts 3.5w/24v = .145a To calculate watts, multiply volts by amps 24 x .145 = 3.5 Hope this helps
Disclaimer as usual. I am not a pro, so take my comments for what they may be worth! How are all the other heads doing on that zone? Or are there only 2 rotors on that one? First thing IMO would be to see if you can increase performance by using the radius adjustment. there is a direct correlation between the radius of the throw of water and the GPM and Pressure available to throw it. A FYI also just as a reminder, the sprinkler chart pressures listed are the pressure at the sprinkler head, so i...
Quoted from "njitgrad" Did you mount it right on the controller box? No I didn't mount mine on the side of the controller...I mounted it on the conduit that has my other wires in it. I ran my valve wires and mini click wire in a conduit that I installed which penetrates the side of my garage. (I had to drill a hole through the brick and drywall for the conduit to pass through). The conduit enters through the wall about 6" above the garage floor. I put a 90 on the conduit so the conduit turns up...
Not a pro here, but here is my take .... Master Valve feeds all 5 of your zones. The main line splits off either before or after the 2 valve manifold and goes to to wherever it goes to. It would have to, otherwise those 3 zones wouldn't have any water. Either that or the main splits off before the Master, which would just be stupid and make no sense to install the master in the first place. Not necesarily should all 5 zone valves be in the same proximity. Might be too much loss in the laterals o...
Quoted from "MrMarkSH" 60 psi at the pump, maybe higher (downhill) at the riser, but they have 30 psi pop-ups. I'm not a sprinkler pro, so this is just a thought. Maybe the regulator in the 30 psi pop up body isn't regulating right and letting too much pressure through? Does it spin fairly fast right away when you replace a mp rotator or spin normal and gradually increase over time, or does it spin normal for however long and suddenly go crazy the next? How long is it taking them to fail after ...
After you have done all of the checks and you are still unsure, then use the lower pressure for the design. If you design from the lower measurement and the pressure is actually higher, your system will work. You will just have more zones than what you actually may have needed. If you design off the high measurement and the pressure is actually lower, the system will not work at all.
Quoted from "howie" created a lot more work for myself! I know the feeling well.
Quoted from "Weave" Should I just get the torch and heat the poly? If you don't already have a torch, I might suggest In lieu of one of those big torches with a big bottle of gas on it like the pros or a plumber might use, you might consider a little torch called a micro torch from Harbor Freight. 9$. You can't ruin the poly so easily with one of these but you do have to be careful no matter the case. The little torch runs on butane. Go to the tobacco store and get one of those small containers...
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" Connecting a four-valve manifold of barbed-outlet valves to four separate poly pipes can be a thing more easy to describe than it is to actually accomplish, since the pipes don't always line up neatly, and digging up all the pipes to get more wiggle room might be easier said than done. haha. You got that right! Ive only built one sprinkler system - mine - and used poly. Built my manifold first, and getting those pipes on those barbs was a real B***h !! Only one of about ...
To the original poster... I think the point you might be missing is why would you want to replace the whole valve anyway? The only real reason to replace the whole valve is if the body of it cracks and starts leaking. Or maybe if you just decide someday to use a different make and model, in which case it probably wouldn't matter how the valve you have now is configured or installed because a different make and model wont exactly fit anyhow. As far as replacing because of failure, a pro who does ...
