check out irrigationtutorials.com for instruction. But you'll have to calculatate the GPM per dripper and basically depending on your size of your system split it up into zones. Drip tape might be a good idea if you have row crops, but if you're targeting individual plants, individual drip emitters are my preference to get right at the root zone. We had gigantic plants with our drip system, 2-3 emitters per big tomato/pepper plant. Rain barrels typically are useless unless they are huge, i.e. th...
hunter or rainbird will do free designs if you send them your specs. Or read irrigationtutorials.com to design it yourself. You might get local contractors to pull the pipe, but I doubt any contractor would be willing to install the parts you buy. But sounds like you need to hire someone to do the design/installation and whole shebang...
That is a ton of questions. But you really need to do some thorough reading on irrigationtutorials.com . Pretty much all your questions are answered on that site. I've been working my way through that piece by piece. I am in a similar situation as you, 3/4" copper feed from the street, I have 80 PSI static pressure, and it's a bit longer from the street, but the problem is you have 3/4" feed (like me). For velocity's sake, you don't want to go over 11 GPM, realistically with other factors like t...
Thanks, this is the layout of the property, each square is 5' x 5'.The line about 7 feet back is the "property line" technically, but there is no sidewalk, and we maintain it all the way up to the curb. I think I will have to break the front lawn section up into 2 zones, and then have a shrub and then a seperate side yard, for a total of 4 zones.
Sorry, I "said" 2 zones in my post, but drew 3, like you said. The side yard may or may not get irrigation this year depending on money and time... I was kind of discounting the side yard in my mind currently... What's really happening is that I'm going to plant grass on the entire thing now, and eventually will turn the "shrub" zone into a perennial garden. As you can see in the picture below, the side yard and driveway are covered in overgrown bushes, basically the only thing to stay on that s...
Hi, I was hoping someone could give me their opinion of my proposed setup for my house. I have about 3500 square feet to cover in the front, and I've done all the math, and I have 11gpm to work with at 80 psi static. I did the math following irrigation tutorials, and I have about 14 PSI left over with my setup. But my city feed is only 3/4" copper, so I'm limited in GPM, so I liked the MP Rotator idea of slower GPM, that way I can squeeze my lawn and shrubs into 2 zones. The main yard are is MP ...
Thanks for that info, so what do you do if you have sprinklers at the bottom of a hill? In my case I probably have a 6' drop at the bottom right of the house, it's a little less on the left side, but still 4' drop. Should I just insert the sprinklers angled backwards a little so the top is perpendicular to the slop of the lawn?
Not to hijack the thread, but I have a similar situation. What sprinklers have "high angle" nozzles? I see lots of sprinklers with low angle nozzles, but none with "high angle" nozzles? I'm assuming the rotor has to be completely perpendicular to the ground, i.e. not angled... Would you put check valves on the low rotors as well? Thanks!
