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As Wetboots stated, the backflow preventer should be the first piece of the sprinkler system to get water. All of the zone valves need to be downstream from the backflow preventer.
Seeing as your backflow is one of the most expensive parts of the system, the best way to install one is on unions so it can be removed and placed inside during winter.
First and foremost, you are not comparing equal heads. The Rainbird PRS-SAM model has more features than the Hunter PRS30. The Rainbird head has both pressure regulation and a gasket that stops flow when the head drops. Rainbird makes a 1804 w/ PRS only, which is very comparable to the Hunter PRS head. Both heads regulate the pressure at the head, rather than installing pressure control for the whole zone. If cost is a factor, I've found that Rainbird is a bit cheaper than the Hunter heads. I've...
The Rainbird ESP-ME can run multiple valves at one time. Wire in the two valves to one station port and both will activate when the zone is on. On the nozzle charts, GPH doesn't mean as much as the precipitation rate the nozzle has. If you are using MP Rotators, they have around a 0.39 inches per hour precipitation rate for the MP1000's. Contact a local greenhouse and see what your grass needs in inches per week to thrive and set your timer accordingly. If you needed 1 inch per week to keep your...
With the PRS heads pressure will not be an issue. Is your 11 GPM after you leave some extra flow for the house? If not, figure on using only 9 GPM to allow for extra flow. Build your design with the flow in mind and run heads until you run out of flow. You will probably get 9 to 12 heads based on spray area. (A 90 uses less water than a 180). If you post a basic drawing with just dimensions I will try to explain a layout using the flow chart provided by Hunter.
Is there a reason to only use 2 zones? Usually when setting up a system I like to keep the grass and shrubs on separate zones. Generally speaking you have different run times for what you are watering. If you have plants and grass on the same zone you can end up over watering one area or under watering another. The biggest thing with the MP Rotators is to place them on PRS (pressure regulating stem) heads. The heads are able to flow more water at a higher pressure than the charts the manufacture...
I personally use Quickbooks online. They have an iPhone app that allows you to enter stuff as you go. The only thing it doesn't have is a scheduler portion.
Use glue and fittings versus any prebuilt things.
I personally think building it is easier than using the prebuilt manifolds. I have multiple personal reasons for liking it, which I don't see a point in sharing. I think cost wise, it's cheaper to build your own, but that depends on if you mess up a time or two.
Couple of questions. Have you checked the orientation of the valve (ie is it installed with the flow arrow pointing the proper direction). Second, does the system have a master valve? If the system has a master valve, then that explains why it goes off with the system off. How long has the system run before the problems were found? Did valve 3 start closed, open when supposed to and then never shut off or did it open as soon as you put water to the system?
I would start with the head you replaced last year. It sounds like you have exceeded your available flow for the zone. I would change the nozzle to a lower flow rate and see if the helps the zone.
The old timer was a Rain Bird Rain Clox RC-8A. I replaced it with a digital timer, Rain Bird ESP-RZX6 Outdoor. After talking with the engineers at Rain Bird about this particular issue, they advised me that no current timer manufactured by Rain Bird will power the valves due to the internal logic of the new timers. They stated that the amp out put is limited to 0.5 to 0.75 amps and the Thermo-Hydrolic valves require 1.5 amps. Their solution was mentioned by Wet earlier, put a second power supply...
There is a 50/50 chance it happens again. You more than likely have something in the piping and its currently in a position that isn't hurting things. If it moves to where it was before, the problem should return.
As a contractor, when I replace heads, I purchase and sell a complete head. It's part of the "game" and just swap the guts and leave the body in the ground. Only key is to buy the exact same head as what's in the ground. As for the ones sticking up, it sounds like the springs are starting to wear out. The water pressure pushes the heads up and the internal spring pushes it down. Either the spring is bad or the wiper assembly is clogged with dirt. If they are the 4" spray heads its usually cheape...
If you are going to keep the MP rotors on there, you need to put PRS heads under them. The heads flow as much water as you supply them with. I've dealt with this type of issue many times. If you want to keep the MP's go buy 12 Hunter pro sprays with PRS and install them instead of the basic prospray's. If you goto www.hunterindustries.com and look at the MP Rotators you will see under the specifications tab that the recommend an output pressure of 40 PSI. They say list an option of installing th...
Buy 12 hunter pro sprays with PRS and install the same nozzles on the new heads. The MP's are just like rotors and will flow much more than their charted flow if the extra pressure is there. I'm 99% sure hunter says to install them on PRS heads.
On the blockage, I would take the valve for zone 6 apart (after turning the water supply off) and look inside the bottom of the valve and see if you see any junk/debris/parts. Remove said junk/debris/parts and reassemble the valve. While you have it apart, it wouldn't hurt to turn the water supply on and allow water to vent from the valve bottom. This will help clear anything that has floated back toward the supply. A blockage can get in the pipe during install and slowly move around until it fi...
If the system worked before, there is nothing to worry about if you put another MP nozzle on the spray body. Something to consider if you are lacking pressure in the zone is to swap out heads with PRS heads. I've dealt with the MP's for a couple of years now and have learned that PRS (Pressure regulating stems) help keep the flows where they should be.
Sounds like a bad diaphragm. Buy the same valve as the one in the ground. Take both valves apart. Put the parts from the new valve in the old one and reassemble the old one with the new parts. This will replace both the diaphragm and the solenoid. Make sure you use waterproof wire nuts on the wire connections.
