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I think the best way to picture this is to imagine a feature where a rotor would water from 0 degrees to 110 degrees, not water from 110 degrees to 160 degrees, then water again from 160 degrees to 180 degrees. My garden falls in the 110 to 160 degree area of coverage and I don't want my garden watered for a multitude of reasons.
Quoted from "Central Irrigation" Is it possible to just use a full circle nozzle, or an adjustable spray nozzle? I have a vision that you want two heads right next to each other. If that's the case, save the money and use a different nozzle. Unless I'm not understanding you...a full circle nozzle will not only get my garden wet, but I also be watering my neighbor's lawn for free!
I have a 5-zone system with 2-5 sprinker heads (of various types) on each zone for a total of 19 heads. I am in the process of replacing each one (as my time permits) with RB5004 heads because they are very simple to adjust. I am about to replace an old Orbit head and was wondering if at the same time I could piggyback a 2nd identical head off of it to spray water in the opposite direction. The reason for wanting to do this is that two years ago I installed a new garden near the back corner of m...
Last summer I did a self-install of a Hunter Pro-C controller to which I added a Hunter Roam kit remote. The system works as I expected it to with one exception...the human element. Not being a pro, I really don't know how to go about programming my zones. I've been relying on manual watering with the remote. Depending on how much time I have in the morning before water usage in the house is in high demand, I select Program A, B or C to run. Program A runs each of the 5 zones for 60 min, Program...
I ended up returning the 42SA+ to HD and went to a local irrigation supply to pick up some RB5004 heads instead. Same result. Fast forward 2 and half weeks later. I noticed a huge hole in my mulch bed yesterday and a lake of water after turning the troubled zone on. It turns out I had a leak in my poly hose. After digging it out and cutting the bad section out I determined that it was likely caused by pressure from roots from a shrub that was planted on top of that line. I ripped that shrub out ...
So basically what you're saying is that its not practical for a homeowner to purchase a compressor just for doing blowouts because of the storage space it requires and the hefty price tag for such a dedicated unit. My blowout costs $90 every Fall.
Quoted from "H2oExpert" Your going to want to find a compressor that has a high CFM (cubic feet minute). Depending how much time you want to spend doing your B/O, for a normal system 135cfm is a good place to start. you can use a compressor like the one you were asking about but it will take quite a while Is it just me or does 135 cfm sound like a tremendous amount. The Rolair JC10 specs indicate 3.8 cfm @ 40psi and 2.35 cfm @ 90 PSI. These numbers are not even in the ballpark. Am I missing som...
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" If you can change the position of the coverage arc by force applied to the top of the turret, then you are using the clutch. The printed instructions became out-of-date the moment the clutch was added to the head. Thanks. Exactly what I have been thinking, just wanted an experienced installer to confirm.
I just called Rainbird and asked them this question. They told me to turn ONLY the turret to adjust the left stop (which is what I have been doing). I told them that the directions for setting the left stop on the 5000 series on their website don't make sense. They say to rotate the entire case which makes it sound like its possible to loosen the connection to the inlet pipe if it's anything more than a 1/4 turn. Am I right?
I don't know if my newly purchased 5004 heads have the new slip clutch feature. How can I tell? I bought them at a local irrigation supply company and the guy made it sound like they had them but I don't know for sure. I am able to turn the rotor past the factory set left and right stops with some effort but is this OK? If I don't have the slip clutch, how do you adjust the left stop in that case? All of the manuals and videos I watched make it sound almost like there is a possibility of having ...
Looking to buy a compressor this summer to blow out my own lines out at the end of the season. Will a 125 PSI compressor like the one below be sufficient for a residential property with approximately 1/2 acre of property? Do I then just need to add a blowout fitting (also below)? Rolair 2.5 Gal Air Compressor Blowout fitting
Quoted from "electrifiedmale" My ROAM works great too. I can even sit in my living room and turn on the sprinklers and my receiver port is in the garage also. Awesome, good to know I'm not the only person that did this. Did you mount it right on the controller box? I carefully bored a hole into the side to fit the smart port and used a romex connector nut on the inside to hold it in place. I'll take a pic tonight. I just wish the remote had a feedback mechanism to tell me how much time is left ...
I have a 5 zone system and it appeared yesterday that one of them was not functioning as well as the other four. Upon inspection I realized two heads (a Toro and a Hunter PGP) were leaking majorly. I haven't really used my system much at all this season, only early in the Spring where it was determined that the mechanical timer in my garage needed to be upgraded, a project I finally completed this weekend with a Hunter Pro-C I purchased from Sprinkler Warehouse. So I went ahead and replaced both...
In the process of replacing my Imperial Valet timer with a Hunter Pro-C, I decided to replace ALL existing wiring from the inside of my garage to the outside landscaping (as much as I reasonably could). I have only been living at my new house for two years and the previous (original) owner had no clue about the location of any zone valves so I was left to figure it out myself. As I was trenching today I identified a zone box (I'll call this Box 1) housing my master zone value (right next to wher...
So I still do not understand what needs to be done here (other than the fact that I need a real AVB). What I need is a visual. Does an AVB need to be installed indoors? if not, does the "fakery" need to be simply swapped out with an AVB? I am really getting frustrated here because its obvious you know your stuff and you are not painting a clear enough picture for a simpleton like myself, other than referring to my current configuration as a "fakery"...... If I call my local pro I need to tell th...
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" What's kind of amusing is that there is as much weight of brass in the bits of fakery as there is in a real PVB. Don't know what you mean by that. Without resorting to metaphors, could you describe to me the technical problem with my imitation of a PVB. I want to understand how and why this is a problem and how it wasn't considered a problem when originally installed. Quoted from "Wet_Boots" Are you on flat ground? If there is any slope, is it downhill away from the hous...
It has been highly recommended to me that I upgrade my antiquated backflow prevention device to a modern PVB. I am not inclined to do any plumbing on my own, so I will need to call my local pro (unless someone can recommend a reliable one in northern NJ). At the very least I would like to know what specifically I should have installed and if there is anything particular during the installation process that I should be aware to ensure the job is done right. Below are pics of the inside and outsid...
I have another plan for the entry point for the sprinkler wire cables. See pics below of a box I bought from the electrical supply store. I will have to mount in with four screws on my stucco wall and will have to drill a 1.5" hole in the cinderblock to fit the thread connector so the box sits flush with the wall. In the pics below you will notice I used 1/2" PVC. I will probably end up using 3/4" PVC because as you can see, the 90 degree elbow will prove very difficult to feed two sprinkler wir...
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" Read a PVB owners manual, and you'll get up to speed. The devices you have imitate the appearance and function of a real PVB, purely in an attempt to save money. The savings nowadays is not so very much, compared to way back when. The outdoor item is entirely non-functional, installed as it is. Read some threads in the backflow section. A pro charges $200+ to correct this sort of thing. I took a look at some of the information you mentioned and came to the conclusion tha...
