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Hopefully you got the pump primed that way. I'm in Northwest Florida and about 50 percent of the irrigation is on Index Valves - the four legged spider. The index valve has a rotator disk in it and when you first start the pump for the season some crap may come out of the well and stick between the disk and the wall of the Index Valve - it's only about a 1/16th of a inch gap. Rapping the valve gently will dislodge the debris. When the disk sticks it will send water to all zones at the same time ...
First check to see that you have voltage going across the relay in the timer - 110 or 220v. If that's good take the back of the motor off - it should be a cap or a plate depending on the type of pump. Make sure the timer is off and see if you can manually spin the shaft. If you can turn the timer on and check for voltage. If you have voltage then the bearings are likely seized. Put 7/16" wrench over the end and wiggle back and forth. It just takes a little rust to stop the shaft from turning. Tu...
I agree with Tom. Then just run some drip and relax.
Tons of suggestions, BUT need just a little bit more information. Timer, electric valves, pump and well, city water, type of head - Toro, Rainbird, Hunter etc.
Kwik-Cut for poly, swing, PVC PR 160 & 200. Lenox Saw for Sch 40 & 80 and of course old pipe.
If you are just doing this once, you might want to rent a wire locator from a local Irrigation Supply House. The clicker does work but I have a Progressive Electronics 521 Wire locator and have found valves on the beach lost from Hurricanes. This is the type they usually rent. You just start at the Controller and follow the dead spot between the two tones. As far as the wires, make sure they have a wire spice on them, but don't bury them in the valve box.
The Rainbird ESP or the Hunter Pro-C - but I prefer the Rainbird. Ease of explaining to homeowner for one thing. Of course the Rainbird RC controllers would definately be used for older homeowners. Yes they are expensive but last a long time and there are parts to repair them as opposed to burnt circuit boards and the garbage can. Richard
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tkelly</i> <br /><font size="2"></font id="size2"><font face="Arial">My sprinkler system is vintage 1992, featuring four zones in front year and five in back, each with a separate conroller box featuring RainBird DV100 valves. The system works pretty well. I had to replace one valve bonnet, solenoid and diaphragm about five years ago, but that's it. I ...
Check this link http://irritrol.com/controller_manuals/index.html#total%20control Download a manual for your controller and reprogram it, and keep junior away from the timer next time.
You could do what aquamatic suggested or just dig up the head and screw a threaded plug/cap onto or into the fitting the head was screwed into.
Your approach is good and a master valve at the POC is recommended. I agree with RVLI with the PVC mainline and Poly laterals.
I am a Landscape and Irrigation Contractor and we install irrigation around established trees quite a lot. Of course the cost is more because of the deviations that have to be made. I make it a point to stay just outside the dripline of the tree if I'm using machinery and hand dig if necessary inside the dripline. The type of trees you mentioned should not be affected by a vibratory plow or hand digging.
Sta-Rite 1 1/2hp Centrifugal Pump DS-2
If you have an extra station on the timer, run up some time on it and manual start it. The pump will kick on and none of the systems will run - make sure you have a hose open on the pump going to the pool. When done, Zero out the time on that station on the controller - must be done before setting it back to automatic because the timer will still tell the pump to come on if there is time on it. Blow up pipe or burn up pump.
I would advise working for an Irrigation company for a few years before starting out on your own. Learn all you can, get your licenses, liability, workman's comp etc. Check out this site for some pointers www.irrigationtutorials.com. There is good money in it but you have to stand behind your work and don't cut corners - they tend to bite you in the end.
Sounds like you have a break in the mainline or system line and are sucking in sand or dirt into the line, thus clogging the heads. Start with the furtherest heads and shut or cap off working back to your water source, waiting and watching each time for a puddle, wet spot or a swelling in the lawn. That's where your break is.
Rainbird 1800 series shrub heads, but I would put a booster pump on that line. 18 psi is pretty low. In order to get 15' spray you'll need at least 30 psi.
Safe T Lawn went out of business yeeeears ago. Time to upgrade - Rainbird!
I recommend the Rainbird R-50 Rotor with Raincurtain Nozzle or the Rainbird 5000 Rotor.
Have to agree with RVLI. With what you have planned in the future you shouldn't have to do a lot of re-design using all sprays.
