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Anti siphon valve are required to be place 12" above the highest outlet. Most Lilly the leaking you are seeing is due to back pressure due to the slope. Personally I'm not a fan of anti siphon valves. I recommend using one standard double check valve or RPZ valve depending on the code for your area, then install standard valves- Hunter PGV. If you do this you will not have to move the valves all the way up hill. It looks a lot better and it's much more reliable. I would also installing a pressur...
Quoted from "gr0d" Quoted from "Wet_Boots" Put a pressure gauge on that zone. Get some caps (or plugs) and rework the test zone to have as little as one head spraying. You want to have at least 40 psi in that zone. Once you see 40-50 psi sprinkler operation, you can have a proper idea of the actual flow you have available. Is there a backflow preventer in place yet? Hey guys, sorry for the long delay. It's been a long winter and haven't really been thinking about the system lately. However, the...
Another easy way to check the flow for rotors is the bucket test. Use a 4" piece of pipe with a elbow at the top that. Goes into a bucket. slip it over the rotor and measure how long it takes to fill the bucket. Or you can make gallon marks on the bucket. I really like this method. It's really illustrates just how much a rotor head puts out. I'll try and load a picture from the one I have.
If you just trying to figure out the flow of each zone. Simply just watch your water meter for each zone. If you are trying to figure out the flow of each head then you will need a pedo tube gauge to measure accurate head pressure. Then you will use the pho nozzle chart to deter main the flow for what nozzle you have in the PGP. On a PGP the flow does not change no matter how far the radius or arc is. The only thing that will change flow on. PGP is pressure or a nozzle change. Hope this helps!
I think I had the issue as well when I signed up. I beleave I finally found it under the "all mail" folder in gmail. It may have been a few days later as well.
You don't need to program a start time for each zone or program for what your trying to accomplish. You need to clear programs B & C and stick to only A All that needs to be programmed is : -1 or first start time( this start time applies to all the zone, once it finishes one it will move to the next) ex.13:00 -Valve run time ex. 1:00 for zones 1,2,3,4 -Day in which to water. I'd stay away from odd/even and interval watering. I would just set it to water a set day(s). Keep in mind these controlle...
I'm a fan of the pre assembled Hunter 6"swing joints. We install the with every head we replace. They are only a buck and they are super tough. If you guys are not using them I recommend at least checking them out. They save a ton of time on installs and leveling heads.
It's pretty tough to max out a zone with drip tubing. The flow rate of embedded emitters is so low. If it is properly installed with a grid like pattern you should be able run up to 1000ft no problem. I do agree that you should run your main lines PVC the convert to drip after the valves.
Pressure can be checked with a static pressure gauge on a hose bib. If it's attached to the a hose bib and reads above 25-30 psi with the zone on, I'm pretty certain it's the valve. You can try that with other zones to compare the readings. If all zones are designed with similar flow and pressure the readings should be real actively similar.
I would also check the valve itself. I see lots of old irritrol valves that will come on but fully open. That causes a flow issue which can create a lack of pressure. A valve opening only halfway from a stiff diaphragm really drops the pressure. Hope it help.
It doesn't sound like a controller issue. To me it sounds like a faulty valve. Maybe a pice of rock or PVC stuck holding the diaphragm in the open position. That is why it continues to run even when the controller is unplugged.
Remember. Since the flow rates/precipitation rates of the nozzles change you will need to compensate by adding a longer run time for those stations.
Wet boots is exactly right. If you don't have a locator to trace the wires you may use what is called "chatter/ pinging" the valve. Basically your using low voltage electricity to make the solenoid open and close, this makes a clicking noise. If you don't have a Station Master there is a cheap cheat. Make sure the water supply is turned off. Disconnect the station wire from the controller. Turn on the station on the controller. Have someone tap the wire on the terminal while you are in the yard ...
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Sounds like you have a pretty solid plan. It's kinda tough to picture the set up. But if I'm picturing it correctly. You could run a control wire to the pump from both MV/P terminal on each controller, that way the pump only operates when one of the controllers has a zone on. Be careful with two controllers that the run times do not overlap and lower the overall pressure.
You should be fine with four i20 on a zone. However you thinking is a little off when it comes to nozzles. The idea of the system is not to just come on but to water efficiently. What I mean here.(just an example) the hydraulic calculations may very what nozzles you use Example : 90 degree rotors should be 1gpm 180 degree rotors 2 gpm 360 degree rotors 4 gpm The theory here is that it takes twice as long to make a pass for 360 as it does for 180 degree. If you use all the same nozzles the corner...
I agree with mrfixit and wet boots. Keep in mind the reset button is your friend. One of my number one calls is customers with irrigation systems that will not turn off. Turns out they usually they have to many start times or a separate program. All controllers need three things to operate. Start time, station run time and the day in which to run. It is very easy to get programs and start times mixed up, especially with today's high tech controllers
Yikes. That's an awful valve. I would change it out to the Hunter PGV if possible. The extended portion of the valve should be pointing up with the diaphragm below. Good luck
Sorry for the late reply but here is a little trick we use. The valves will be fine, however the wire connections over time will most likely corrode. A little trick we use while covering the trenches is to put a small piece of gorilla tape/duct tape over the hole in the valve cover to stop dirt from falling in. Since you say the boxes are not in low spots they are most likely filling due to water running over the valve cover. You can also find valve covers without holes. www.SmartEarthSprinklers...
