SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

I doubt Segask will make an appearance since his post is 7 years old. To answer your question you can definetly over tighten and break the plastic. Also all three of your questions are possible. It might stop. It might get worse, a lot. It might stay the same.

Can you tell me what model valve it is and what do you have screwed into it?

Just by off chance you used a Spears male adapter there's a problem with them cracking due to brittle plastic. They used to be an excellent fitting then Spears redesigned them.

Quoted from "Big O"

Hi segask,



I have a similar situation where the thread to the valve leak very slowly (even though I used teflon tape) and tighted it very tight. I am starting to wonder if it is possible to over tightening it and possibly caused a crack (I used a wrench)?



Anyways, just curious if you found out if the small leak plugged itself up (got better) or if the leak got worst over time or if the small leak remained the same and you considered it good enough since it was out doors (in my case, the spinkler valve)?



Thanks!

Even if an irrigation system is "outdoors", if the leak in question is in a mineline (pipe under constant pressure) then that is unacceptable [to me] because it leaks 24/7. So a small leak on the output side of a valve might be tollerable, but a leak on the input side (that's under constant pressure from city water) is not.


In the time since this post was created, I've been able to install an irrigation/drip irrigation system around my house. I never did learn a procedure that would reliably create a leak-free connection, here's what I found worked most often:

Wrap the threads with teflon tape for 5 to 7 wraps. Before you screw the parts together, pre-seat the tape in the threads. For example, the thing I would usually do is cover my hand with a rag and make a loose fist. I would then try to screwn the taped threads into my hand (the "hole" between my thumb and fingers). Then proceed to screw the final pieces together.

To avoid splitting the connection, the rule of thumb is to tighten my hand, then use a wrench to tighten about 1/2 turn (1 full turn max). And if you are ever having to join PVC to metal, the PVC MUST be a male and the metal a female.

Everyone is entitlied to their opinion of course so i'll voice mine.



Ive been in business for about 17 years doing irrigation only.



In my 17 yr career ive never been taught or told to wrap teflon tape "Backwards' of the thread direction.



I just did some online research to verify, and i cant find anywhere that says wrap in the opposite direction of the threads.



Ive ALWAYS wrapped teflon (3/4" wide or larger) in the SAME direction as the threads.



For plastic to plastic, usually 2 to 3 complete wraps (tight wraps) around the male end.


Hand tighten for plastic to plastic plus a 1/4 to half turn with a wrench.


For plastic to metal, use a HIGH quality pipe liquid teflon or pipe thread sealant. Hand tight plus a 1/2 to One complete turn with a Offset pipe wrench.

It has always been my understanding that if you wrap teflon tape backwards, it will bunch up and not thread into the fitting properly

Quoted from "Kiril"

Agreed .... with the one exception that I use both goop and tape on any metal joining, and avoid like the plague metal male to PVC female.

That should be a given!!

Well at least an ' always remember ' rule.

I layer of tape definitely won't do it.
Try 3 or 4. Brass threads are sharp and can cut right through it.
I haven't used paste in a while but can't see why you couldn't.