SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

Not enough information. If you mean for actual sprinkler heads to run from the drainage from a pond, then elevations need to be known.

Your elevation difference works out to about 35 psi. That greatly limits what you can achieve. A conventional system with an electric valve feeding pop-up sprinkler heads is probably out of reach, because about 10 psi gets lost from source to heads.

What you can count on operating from a 35 psi supply are impact heads, especially the Rainbird Maxipaw heads, because they can be adjusted for lower operating pressures. That they also function on "dirty" water is a bonus.

I don't 'get' the "1-1/2 inch holes" - is this describing the inlet pipe?

Running sprinkler heads from pond water requires that you screen the water intake, so that the sprinklers don't clog up. An impact head will pass a particle smaller than the nozzle diameter. You could cover the inlet with something akin to window screening. The Maxipaw heads may not use anywhere near as much water as the big brass heads that often are used in distributing water over a drainage field, but they will work at the pressures you have. They will throw about 35 feet, and use 3 gpm with the standard nozzle, and up to 6 gpm with optional larger nozzles.

If you need to move several hundred gallons per minute, you might have to spend money for a pump and big sprinklers.

Simple economics has you using the largest nozzles. Even at 200 GPM, the long run between pond and drainage field won't sap the operating pressure more than 2 psi. It becomes up to you to arrange the heads and piping in the field so that pressure is maintained. If the 4-inch pipe enters the field at a central location, you might be able to branch out immediately to 4 or 5 or 6 pipes feeding different sections, using 2-inch PVC

See this pressure-loss chart for more detail.

The valve that feeds this might be best located near the pond, so that it isn't receiving the force of the flow through the hundreds of feet of 4-inch pipe.

45 heads will work fine, even with the 3 gpm nozzle already installed in the Maxipaw, as that will give you about 135 gpm total flow. The 6 gpm nozzles might be too much flow. An in-between nozzle size exists, so that would get you closer to the 200 gpm total flow.

The diagram you posted (I fixed the link {not your fault}) splits into 6 lines, so that works with 2-inch pipe. It doesn't have to be 2-inch all the way to the ends of each line. That's where the friction-loss tables come in.

One more caution to your proposed setup is dealing with inrush flow. Since water seeks its own level, you will have hundreds of feet of empty 4-inch pipe when this starts up. What can sometimes happen is that the air rushes out of of the sprinkler heads far more rapidly than the equal volume of water would, setting up a situation where the water will smash into the system at the speed of the air movement. On the small scale of residential sprinkler systems, this isn't a big concern. On a golf course, it's a different story. One simple way to work with this phenomenon is to have more than one shutoff valve set up in a parallel array, and to open only one valve at a time, until you have full flow. While this complicates the plumbing at the source, it saves you the expense of a 4-inch shutoff valve, and you can go with 1-1/2 inch valves, or maybe 2-inch valves. Smaller valves are easier to operate, too.

{I edited the previous paragraph to remove a reference to a downstream pressure gauge next to the valves, because that wouldn't help with the shutoff valve(s) located way uphill from the sprinklers. (Downstream pressure is a part of the function of the very-expensive specialty valves a golf course would employ to avoid the previously-described damage)}